The video is mostly okay except for the creation of a gasket between the gear case and midsection. That is a HUGE, HUGE mistake, like Dave said. What will happen when that guy runs the engine, is that there will be too much end play between the gear on top of the gear case, and the transmission. That will allow the upper and lower drums of the transmission to separate too much, and under load, the big forward/reverse spring will get part of itself drawn in between the upper and lower drums, instantly bending and destroying the big spring. There is a shimming procedure to check, after doing a pump, that takes a special Merc tool. IF, IF, you put everything back together just as it should be, with every little washer and shim in the right place, you can probably get away without the tool. Just follow the manual and double check the parts list, because people before you can, and probably have, missed something. The only other things I can add would be to seal between the upper and lower housings, around the water passage only, with some sort of sealant, used SPARINGLY.. I use OMC type M or 3M 847. Also, make sure the surface on the pawl cover is nice and flat. If you don’t use the sealant, or if the pawl cover is warped (which they usually are) air can be drawn in, instead of water, causing the pump to run even drier than usual on start up…..and you’ll be doing the impeller all over again. I also didn’t like using the bent/damaged wear plate on top of the pump again. I know he said he was going to straighten it, but I could see it was still a little warped when he installed it. These pumps start up dry, like high-mount Scott Atwater Bail-a-Matics. If it’s pulling any excess air on startup, it’s not going to pump water.
But other than that, it’s a great set up. Lol.
Long live American manufacturing!
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