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Both the Marine Engine site and Mercury’s dealer site say that gasket is the right one for your engine. I don’t know what is going on. Could it be the serial between the bracket and power head have been mis-matched over the years?
I don’t know exactly how Mercury built those stop switches, so my idea to repair the wires may not work….But…..I recently worked on an OMC 18 hp with the same problem: bad wires to the stop switch. I found that the wires were crimped into the switch contacts. I was able to carefully press out the contacts, cut the wire off the contacts, then carefully drill the remaining strands out of the contacts. I cut some new wire, inserted it into the contacts, re-crimped them, and fed the wire and contacts back into the switch. You can’t tell it from OEM, now and it works good. Hope that helps YOU….
Long live American manufacturing!
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I have had success placing shrink-tube over bad wire insulation in those old Mercs – shrink it with a hair dryer. It looks good when you are done too! …or solder new wire to the old wires an inch or so behind the switch (or use inline crimp connectors) and put shrink over the solder joint or crimp connectors when done. You can get shrink tube at good hardware store or Menards. Note some years of Mercury stop switches are just normally open , momentary shorting switches, but some years there were electronic parts embedded in the switch – like maybe a diode or two. An ohmmeter check will tell you what you have. I learned that when I went to swap a switch from a newer model to an older one.
Dave
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Generic push button switches like this one work fine for Mercury replacements where the ignition is not normally grounded. Pushing the button grounds the points and kills the engine.
They are sold everywhere it seems….
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