Home Forum Ask A Member Mercury Phase Maker ignition

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  • #219742
    geary
    Participant

      US Member

      Guys, We are looking for one of the early !973 Mercury’s (4hp – 9.8hp) with a blown not working Phase Maker ignition systems ! Or even just a power head with a complete Phase Maker magneto would be acceptable ! Any help would be appreciated !

      Thanks

      Gary

      #219766
      cajuncook1
      Participant

        What years did Mercury make this type of ignition?

        #219771
        outbdnut2
        Participant

          US Member

          How will I know if a motor has a Phase Maker ignition? Does it say so on an emblem like the thunderbolt ignition? I haven’t heard of the “Phase Maker” before, but I have few old Mercs from that era. Was it only made in early 1973?
          Dave

          Hey – I just ran a search and found the article below – appears that Phase Maker is another name for the Thunderbolt with Maker Points – is this right? If it is, I have one with a bad stator assembly on a 7.5 HP parts motor.

          https://forums.iboats.com/threads/1971-mercury-7-5-phase-maker-learnings.668402/

          • This reply was modified 4 years, 7 months ago by outbdnut2.
          #219794
          fastjohn
          Participant

            US MEMBER PAY BY CHECK

            I have two 1973 4hp motors. One has very low compression, the other is froze. I do not know the condition of the ignition system on either.

            #219802
            dave-bernard
            Participant

              US Member

              when you pull the flywheel off there is a RED cover that has the points inside. points will look very pitted but that is normal.

              #219806
              foot_doctor
              Participant

                US Member

                The PhaseMaker ignition system is fine if you are aware of the weakness. The plastic blocks that support the point connection screws have a tendency to shrink and crack around the screws. The cracks allow the capacitor to discharge to the metal frame and a crack in either plastic block will kill both cylinders as they share the same capacitor. I solved the issue on my engines by drilling the plastic blocks to allow a loose fit around the screws and then not tightening the screw and nut too tight. If you disassemble the mounting block and witness black tracks thru the holes to the outer surface, the block is bad, and must be replaced. It’s an early CD version that was later supplanted by solid state switching. R.T.

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