Milemaster gasket kit?

[wyo307]

Hello again everyone,

I am getting close to getting my 1953 RD 15 25hp running again and one of the last steps is to rebuild the remote gas tank. My question is which gasket set is the best? I believe that it is a 5 gallon milemaster with the black primer button. Also once I get it rebuilt is there a way that I can check it before it is hooked into the motor? Also what is the starting procedure with these tanks? This is my first outboard with one of these pressure type tanks.

Thank you in advance,
Ryan

[richg]

The kit should also contain the rubber diaphragm material for the later (plastic button) tank. They are available from several vendors and Ebay. To test, all you need to do is push the primer button and see if pressure builds up and holds. Let it sit awhile then crack the cap to release pressure. One location that needs o-rings is the fuel connector. Check out Frank Robb’s tool for this job. Here’s one vendor and a link to Frank’s tooling.

http://www.vintageoutboard.com/collections/johnson-evinrude-fuel-systems/products/je-pt-57-johnson-evinrude-pressure-tank-repair-kit

http://www.franksoutboardtools.com/fuel-connector-fixture.html

[Casey Lynn]

Am assuming you know the proper fuel/oil ratio for that engine? Since it is your first engine and a really nice one to start with now would be a good time to ask whatever questions you may need answers to or opinions about.

[chris-p]

Actually Rich, the button simply sends fuel to the carb like a bulb on a 1 line tank. It does not pressurize the tank at all. The motor does that while running.

After running, don’t leave the tank pressurized. Crack the cap, and wait for the hissssss.

Don’t run that motor on 50:1, no matter what anyone says. Keep it at 24:1 with TCW3 oil, in my humble opinion.

[david-bartlett]

+1 on what Chris said!

[reivertom]

These tanks are pretty straight forward as far as rebuilding them. When you get ready to screw the top assembly back on, torque the screws a little at a time from middle to "ears" and alternate like head bolts on a motor block. The one thing I would definitely do is, if you re-paint it use good gas resistant paint. A lot of rattle can paint will run off after a few spills. It will cost a bit more, but save a re-do or living with an ugly-a## fuel can next to a nice motor.

[kevinrude]

make sure you order the right kit based on plastic or metal primer button (sounds like you have plastic, but double check) — the refurb kits are different for each type

http://laingsoutboards.com/johnsonevinrudeparts.html

[wyo307]

Thank you everyone for the advice. Pappy this isn’t my first old outboard just my first with one of these "pressure" tanks. I am not planning on repainting it as of yet since I am leaving the motor original for now. Can I test that it is holding pressure by plugging off the fuel side of the line and then blowing air into the air line? How much pressure should I put in the tank?

[Steve D]

quote Wyo307:

Can I test that it is holding pressure by plugging off the fuel side of the line and then blowing air into the air line? How much pressure should I put in the tank?

Yes you can. I’ve done it like that with a pressure tester. I use it for testing lower units also. I just swap out the hose with one that has a fitting for the lower unit. Just 3-4 pounds is usually sufficient. If it’s losing air you can squirt sudsy water on the screws, button, gasket area, etc. to pinpoint the leak.

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[richg]

Agreed Chris_P and david bartlett! The primer button doesn’t provide pressure to pump up the tank. But if you have the two line hose connected to a full tank on one end and NOT connected to a motor on the other and depress the primer button, fuel will flow into the FUEL hose. It flows because of a pressure change. Running, the pressure pulse from the motor through the AIR line to the tank will keep the pressure differential up to keep fuel flowing to the motor. But hey, I could be wrong. 🙂

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