More Mercury 110 questions

[20mercman]

I have never tried to swap one end for end, most of my motors are the 200’s, I only have 5 of these 110’s ( That sounds crazy once I typed it! ) Anyway, if it will swap end for end, I don’t see why it wouldn’t work. I have used the JB-Weld repair on those before with excellent results. They don’t turn much, certainly not like a drive shaft, and all you are doing is filling in pits so you have a smooth surface.

Steve

[david-bartlett]

Steve,

I will try flipping it just for fun and see how it fits, and will let you know how it goes. You are correct about it not moving a lot, so a smooth area on the shaft should be easy to do with the JB. I am waiting for a couple new needle bearings before I can re-assemble the gearcase, but I could do a dry run on the shift shaft to see how that fits.

[david-bartlett]

OK, I have put in my new seals and bearings and got my shims in place where they were. So far so good. Did they use any kind of sealant on the threaded nut that holds everything in the gearcase? If so, what kind?

Also, how tight should that nut be? Boy, OMC’s sure are simpler!

[20mercman]

I just put a good coat of anti-seize on the threads. No sealant is necessary. It should be tight enough to seat everything, and just snug after that.

Steve

[david-bartlett]

I put this motor in the bucket today and it fired on the first pull. Pumped water fine so I let it run for a while then put it on the boat and took the dogs for a ride.

The motor sounds good considering it had not run since 94. Idles nice and slow and has good WOT speed for a 10hp motor.

I have two new issues that I could use some feedback on.

1.) The recoil seems to drag on the ratchet on the flywheel, making an annoying rattle at times, How do I deal with this?

2.) I am pretty sure the fuel pump is weak. When running at WOT for just a bit, it will die as if it is out of gas. Pumping the bulb will start it right back up. If I just idle along it works fine, so I am thinking fuel pump. Tank vent is OK, tan is clean, carb is spotless.

Thanks for any ideas.

[dave-bernard]

could be a air leak in the fuel system. do you have the small or large pump ?

[david-bartlett]

quote Dave Bernard:

could be a air leak in the fuel system. do you have the small or large pump ?

Dave,

It has the small pump. I don’t get any fuel leaks when pressurizing it with the primer bulb, so was not thinking of an air leak.

And do these Mercury Fuel line connectors come apart for cleaning/servicing?

[dave-bernard]

no they don’t. get the larger fuel pump and install it much better larger check valves wont get messed up with dirt like the small checks do. it was a factory recommendation back when.

[billw]

The other thing is if you have the old float valve seat that has rubber in it, get one where the seat is all brass and the tip of the float is rubber, like most normal float valves. (Sierra ones are okay.) The rubber-type valve seats can constrict and cause high speed problems.

Long live American manufacturing!

[david-bartlett]

Today I had a look in the carb to check the float setting and all looks good, and is adjusted per the Mercury manual. Then I took the fuel pump apart and found the bottom check valve was stuck open. I got that freed up so it "checks" now and have it all buttoned up. I will give it a go in the next day or so and see if that fixed my issue.

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