Need British Seagull Help-spark not happy

[seahuntboater]

Greetings.

I am trying to get my 1966 Century Plus going. It was a mess. This has MK1 ignition and Villiers Carb. I need some advice on testing magneto and circuit. I put in a new Champion D16 plug. I don’t see a condenser in there. So far I have not taken off flywheel but did clean points. There does
not seem to be much of a "high spot" as the crank rotates is that correct? I set points at 20 thousands with the piston about top of the stroke. Is that correct? One magnet feels stronger than the other. I also tried the trick I saw on one of the websites spinning the crank with a drill for a while.

Any help appreciated.

[Michael Anfossi]

20 thou is a good starting point. Are you sure the points are clean? Clean them again – pretty hard to clean well if still inside the flywheel assembly. That is usually cause of no spark. Points in a round brass container, correct? Under that container is the condenser. These are a royal PITA to work on as several little pieces and insulating washers that need to installed correctly to make it work. Have you checked coil for continuity? How about continuity of the HT lead? Also remove HT lead from ignition plate and make sure contact and contact point on coil are clean.

[seahuntboater]

Thanks Michael, I will check the continuity again. with the points open and touching the metal on the points should I be seeing continuity.? I am an I don’t thinks there should be that would point to some insulation issue, correct? thanks

[ausob-collector]

As you no doubt have realised – Seagulls are simple outboards. They need some semblance of spark, compression and fuel to run.

The Villiers mag you have (I assume with the 3 spoked flywheel) is a variant of the original Mk1 system. The condensor sits directly underneath the points assembly, in the little circular container.

You must leave the flywheel on when setting points as the cam is built in. As Micheal says, 20 thou at TDC is a good starting point, but sometimes 18 thou is a good bet.
Seagulls don’t need a massive spark to run anyway.

Have you actually put the sparkplug in the boot and held it up to the block in a dark room and checked to see spark? It is actually quite common for the Champion D16 (and only D16’s) to not always work as they should (I have nothing against Champions, I have J8’s in all my Seagulls).

Any pictures?

Cheers
BP

[seahuntboater]

Yes BP I did ground the plug with no result and that is why I took cover plate off of the 3 spoke flywheel and took cover
off the brass container and cleaned and gapped the points. I also took the HT wire out of the connector and cleaned the brass contact point. It has rained for days and days here so I have not been able to work outside.

Would I have to take flywheel off to get to the condenser or can you get that brass container through the spokes? Seems pretty tight to work that way.

Do you know if I should be getting a continuous continuity reading touching contact to contact on the points even though they are open as rotating flywheel? Any other electrical tests? I read the condenser test on saving seaguls.
Thanks. Ralph

[ausob-collector]

Hi Ralph

To get to the condenser, yes you would have to remove the flywheel.

Cheers
BP

[Steve A W]

Here is a video by Mr Tubbs about taking off the flywheel.
I’ve used this method and it works good.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RWgE9XiIBnk

Good Luck with your motor.

Steve A W

Member of the MOB chapter.
I live in Northwest Indiana

[seahuntboater]

Here is a link to pics.
https://drive.google.com/folderview?id= … sp=sharing

[jeff-register]

Seahunter guy,
First you must expose the magneto in order to work on it. Remove all coverings. Next check each part, coil, points & capacitor by them selves.
Do you understand & own a meter? First tool required. Check the spark by going to plug wire end, & the other probe to ground. A good coil will read 3 to 4 K ohms on your meter. That winding is first to fail! Next check the capacitor by going to X-1 on the ohm scale & touch each contact point to the probes. It should show infinite if not shorted. BUT remember it is not a full voltage capacity test. Next check the points by removing them from the motor & cleaning & dressing up the contact surfaces. Check with paper between the contact surfaces to again see an infinite reading. An infinite reading will be on the side of the meter scale & looks like an eight numeral laid down sideways on the end of the scale using an analog meter. with points closed it should read no resistance to function correctly.
Next clean all the magneto parts clean enough to eat off of. Contamination is conductive with high voltage.
Please report findings to correct failed components. Doing a visual check will result in failure. A electrical devise requires electrical instrumentation to trouble test.
Good luck

[seahuntboater]

Good News! Got Spark .. I was able to get flywheel off with not much trouble. I took off the movable part of the points and noticed it was pitted. Was able to sand and emery it down pretty good. I noticed that the post where the points go into a brass bushing was greasy and oily. I cleaned up that and need to know if it should have any grease when I button down the flywheel.
I did not mess with taking off fixed part of points to try and get to condenser. Cleaned up the magnets and tested with piece of metal . they feel strong. Just tried puitting the flywheel back on and on second pull it sparked.

Now for setting the points. do I just rotate the flywheel till points are at widest opening and gap at 20?
Does that post on the points get any lube?
Now getting excited to finish putting that carb back together.

[Author]

Posts