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crosbyman.
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April 24, 2021 at 6:40 pm #236925
Just started, own two light twins and thinking about pulling the trigger on a late 50’s Everude 10 HP. Just wondering about repair and parts manuals, were to get and how much change.
Cheers Jim
April 24, 2021 at 8:57 pm #236958JOhnson maintenace manual
as a member go to MEMBERS ONLY tab INNER SANCTUM tab LIBRARY tab Garry Spencer’S drop box tab
down his list is the Johnson red maintenance manual … you need it !!
download it to a PDF format on your PC then have it printed it at a local print shop from a USB key and have it spring bound covered with plastic cover sheets
$
most parts easy to get …good hobby…. figure $ 100- $ 125 * to refresh a good compression 10hp points coils carb kit condensers lots of help available to guide you along with your newly acquired virus…collecting oldies 🙂* $$$$ depends on source…. USA or China stuff $$ some like them some don’t
Joining AOMCI has priviledges 🙂
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This reply was modified 4 years, 6 months ago by
crosbyman.
April 25, 2021 at 9:51 am #236992Welcome aboard. Those10’s are my favorite, good power, good idle, and they aren’t too heavy for me to carry (yet).
2Fast4Me
April 25, 2021 at 10:53 am #236999Welcome to the club. Soft copies of the factory Johnson manual are available for free on the internet. Should even be one in the Inner Sanctum or Gary’s Dropbox.
Wayne
Upper Canada Chapteruccaomci.com
April 25, 2021 at 1:03 pm #237007The late 50s 10hp engines are one of my favorites for sure…But, there are a few things to look at fairly closely when considering a purchase. These engines had plain wrist pin bushings that were slightly undersize, they tend to wear causing excess rod slop. Check to make sure there is not alot of slop by rocking the crank back and forth slightly listening for the clunking noises that indicate worn wrist pin bushings.
1958 and newer 10hps used the smaller 5.5/7.5hp gearcase. Not a big issue unless water gets into the gearcase, then the extra power of the 10hp can ruin the driveshaft and lower pinion bushing pretty quickly. Decent driveshafts for these engines are getting hard to find…So, I recommend cracking the lower drain/fill lube screw and checking for water prior to purchase. Raw water, or the lack of anything trying to drain out usually spells trouble….
Add these two inspection points to the usual inspection points used for buying most outboards…April 25, 2021 at 1:11 pm #237009’59 and later motors were equipped with thermostats so be prepared to replace it.
April 25, 2021 at 4:08 pm #237043Thank you, one could get lost in the library, and it is like a virus, one of many I’ve contracted.
Cheers Jim.April 25, 2021 at 4:12 pm #237044Good to know, I’ll check. This unit is purity ruff, guy is down to $125, I can see from the pictures $250 worth of parts needed.
Cheers JimApril 25, 2021 at 5:08 pm #237052$250 seems high coils are cheap I use the ones from China with free shipping if you are not in a hurry, boots to ground must read 4-7 Kohms (approx.)
carb may need just a good scrub.
points can be touched up condensers I agree.. they are likely bad under stress even if basic testing seems ok
timing set up costs nothing if you are handy with a voltmeter … not complicated at all !
if the gearcase shows no water intrusion just drain and replenish …few $$ If it does check utubes for good coaching
if you find a good modern 2 pin side fuel connector you can convert it to a regular single hose fuel tank 1960sand up have fuel pumps vs pressure tanks
It all depends on your intentions to just rejuvinate or use it as a good fishing kicker with little cosmetic investment
this book helps…
just check compression before you buy….. 75-80 psi upwards has been ok for me. – the rest you can probably fix up with coaching and used parts if need be . it is a fun hobby .
Joining AOMCI has priviledges 🙂
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