New member just bought a 1956 Wizard Super 10

[seakaye12]

quote green thumbs:

Then HEAT the swivel in the area of the pin…LOTS of HEAT
Louis.

Louis….how much is "LOTS"? Are you talking about a standard MAP or Butane torch (hand-held) or does it take an oxygen-acetylene torch to be successful? Heat for 10 seconds? A minute? Until it glows red? I really need to work with someone who is comfortable with heating parts in this manner….but until that happens I have to be satisfied with just asking questions….
Chuck

[green-thumbs]

"Lots of HEAT" translates to enough to get results…sometimes not the desired result…remember this is a step up from the usual techniques…the Mercury Service
Manual seldom has mention of stuck, corroded, snapped off fastener…none of the outboards
they serviced were 50 or 60 years old.
Now there is a crucial difference between the Early Mercury K Models and the KE4 and
later models…early K Model swivels had NO rubber or plastic bushings so nothing to
smoke or burn. The later swivel assembles do have a bushing which should be kept in
mind when heating the swivel…sometimes the bushing is fit for reuse and some times
not so you want to avoid damaging parts you may wish to reuse…you have to balance
that against the need to get things apart…sometimes you have to accept doing a little
harm in order to move ahead.

OK with me so far? The hollow swivel pin either has internal thread or it can be tapped
to have an internal thread.
The Early K Models 7/16 fine thread
Later Mercs can have thin wall pin 1/2" fine
There are thick wall pins…those you may have to drill for a convenient thread size and tap.
A nut on a threaded rod has a tremendous mechanical advantage so it exerts a LOT of pull
on swivel pin…it may not be enough…heating the swivel around the pin to expand
in addition to PULL may not work all the time. I have in past hack sawed pin above and
below swivel to salvage the saddle. I think the HEAT and PULL might have saved the
swivel and swivel pin.

If you are not up on use of a tap I can walk you thru the process.

Louis

[jasonh]

Back to Kevin

Kevin,

I am 20 minutes from MB . Your wizard shares main components with mercury. You have.a 20cu in block. It is a detuned mercury mark 25 block, less reeds, smaller intake and ports and smaller carb. Ignition parts are available. Impeller is NLA shared with mercury kg7. Impellers can be found through a few members. The lower unit parts are the same as kg7 with exception to smooth prop shaft. Fuel pump is very common with Mercs and kit is readily available through Merc and Sierra. PM me to get in contact with me when you find out what you need. Can help guide you through repairs as well. Welcome aboard!

[20mercman]

I have had a swivel pin that was seized beyond repair also, but was able to remove it by using what "Green Thumbs" suggested. I used a stack of flat washers, and a 1/2" x 20 threaded bolt. (Actually several lengths of the 1/2" x 20 bolts.) I also used a tap to rethread the swivel pin when the threads eventually pulled out. I then used lots of heat as I applied pressure. It took some time, but I was able to finally walk the pin out. You need the large flat washers allow you to use the bolts as a puller. This system worked very well on a tower that was pretty ugly. (We later one best of show with it at our local club meet, so they can be saved.)

Steve

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