NIB 57 7.5 Evinrude

[crosbyman]

that hurts…

 

Joining AOMCI has priviledges 🙂

[Tubs]

JohnRude
Sent you a PM
Tubs.

A "Boathouse Repair" is one thats done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.

[PM T2]

Nice enough survivor motor. I’d agree that the likelyhood that its a never-been-run example is slim. One person mentioned the paint missing off the lower unit bolts, I’ll also point out the chipped paint on the leading edge of the skeg.

If examination of the piston tops reveals pristine aluminum with zero carbon buildup, then a case can be made that she’s a virgin. In over 30 years of collecting, I’ve seen many motors that were touted as NOS motors, and only one has actually lived up to that. It was a Chris-Craft Commander Racer and we put a camera device in the spark plug holes to verify that it was squeaky clean in there.

Hope this helps.

Best
PM T2

He's livin' in his own private Idaho..... I hope to go out quietly in my sleep, like my grand-dad did..... and not screaming, like the passengers in his car...

[necks]

I picked up a RD-19 35hp Johnson awhile back for a parts motor. It had the same problem, but I was looking for another lower unit. The flywheel was stuck, cleaned out the mouse nests, starter froze up, so proceeded to take lower unit off, got bolts off, shift linkage. Lower unit didn’t fall off, so I used my dead blow hammer to lightly tap unit off, finally the lower unit let loose, and at the same time the motor turned over and freed itself. I hooked up battery cables to starter, cylinders still showed good compression. It still baffles me, the only thing I can figure out is, the motor stopped for whatever reason in gear, in the compression stroke, caused from out of fuel, possible overheated, but didn’t look like it was to me. Obviously, the motor was shut off in gear for whatever reason, and was never touched again, for storage?. It was a fun learning experience, ended up with a good parts motor. Sometimes it pays to start on next step of motor that will need attention, water pump inspection, or whatever. It surprised me.

Gene.

[Tubs]

PM T2 wrote:

Nice enough survivor motor. I’d agree that the likelyhood that its a never-been-run example is slim. One person mentioned the paint missing off the lower unit bolts, I’ll also point out the chipped paint on the leading edge of the skeg.

If examination of the piston tops reveals pristine aluminum with zero carbon buildup, then a case can be made that she’s a virgin. In over 30 years of collecting, I’ve seen many motors that were touted as NOS motors, and only one has actually lived up to that. It was a Chris-Craft Commander Racer and we put a camera device in the spark plug holes to verify that it was squeaky clean in there.

Hope this helps.

Best
PM T2

I may be wrong here as I’m going by comments
from others and some photos, but I have been
lead to believe that motors are test run before
being offered for sale.
Tubs.

A "Boathouse Repair" is one thats done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.

[Buccaneer]

I watched an old OMC video on Youtube last night, showing motors being test ran before
shipped out. After they ran them, it sounds like the carbs  were taken apart so they
were “fuel free”, etc.

I think this is the video I watched. (1960)

https://youtu.be/XEv2Lq0Izec

Prepare to be boarded!

[Bob Wight]

I’ve seen that video before.    Best part is where they test fired the cowling!

Bob

1937 Champion D2C Deluxe Lite Twin
1954 Johnson CD-11
1955 Johnson QD-16
1957 Evinrude Fastwin 18
1957 Evinrude 3022
1958 Johnson QD-19
1958 Johnson FD-12
1959 Johnson QD-20

“Every 20 minute job is only a broken bolt away from a 3-day project.”
"Every time you remove a broken or seized bolt an angel gets his wings."

[Mumbles]

I think all older motors were test run at the factory and again by the dealer for final adjustments before handing them over to the customer. At least the ones my father bought new years ago were run in the dealers test tank before he took them home.

Can’t say the same for newer Yams I’ve bought which came in a sealed box.

[JohnRude]

Thanks for the interest. The NIB designation was more description than fact. The missing paint on the head bolts I explained to Crosbyman. I have not yet checked lower unit oil but it is free. The gear shift works and the prop reacts accordingly. The recoil is perfect .i.e., no marks, pulls freely. The rope is not frayed nor is the handle marked up. As noted to Crosbyman, this motor sat around a marina for at least 30 years and was shuffled from storage to storage. It was probably used as display over the years all of which explains the wear marks.

You are correct. I looked under the inspection plate and the coil varnish was in pieces but I couldn’t turn the flywheel to see more. I sprayed Liquid Wrench up under the fly wheel and tapped with a drift. After soaking it moved and I finally got the flywheel off with a new puller. The coil heals had stuck to the flywheel with what I assume to be rust. The spark plug wire ends were corroded off. The points were not worn but did have grey marks which even test firing would have created. The oiler wick had dissolved or was missing. All in all it was a mess but the mag plate now turned freely.

I took the tiller arm off and disassembled. It was frozen because of old dried grease. A tooth brush and commercial degreaser cleaned it up. Paint on all screws was perfect

Any discoloration under the plug wires and around the head just wiped off with a cloth and Spray Nine. The crankshaft turns freely, pistons move and there seems to be good compression although I haven’t gauge checked it yet.

I took the carb off. It appears to have never been removed. It was clean and dry inside. The glass bowl had a bit of sediment in the bottom that wiped out with a finger. The filter was clean. The float was cork and looked brand new. There was no smell, no goo nor varnish anywhere.

Today, new coils, cleaned up mag plate, points, wires, new plugs, cleaned up carb and all reassembled by days end.  Then I’ll turn my attention to the lower unit.

[fleetwin]

Please be very careful trying to remove the flywheel.  Ideally, you should use the OMC puller kit, but I’m sure you don’t have one.  DO NOT use jaw pullers, or you will damage the flywheel.  The harmonic puller will probably work OK on this small flywheel, but be careful about the bolts you use.  Weak bolts will break off in the flywheel, or pieces could break off hitting you in the face.  Have you removed the flywheel nut?  Use an electric impact gun to remove it.  In any event, don’t put too much force/pressure on that harmonic puller, or something will break.

You mentioned that the powerhead is freed up now, but the throttle is still stuck, so my original theory isn’t the case.  Nonetheless, the flywheel will have to come off to Replace the coils and service the ignition.  The throttle linkage is probably jammed up, could be the friction bushing inside the white twist grip throttle control.  You will figure that out once the flywheel is off.

[Author]

Posts