Home › Forum › Ask A Member › Oil ratio for a Scott Atwater 16
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jeff-register.
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June 18, 2016 at 9:36 am #38507
I just bought my first gallon of Penzoil full synthetic. Wow, is that stuff costly. I haven’t gotten to the bottom of this yet; but West Marine offers it on line for $54.99 a gallon. I work at a boat yard, so I ordered a gallon through Port Supply, the wholesale arm of West marine, thinking I would get a discount. Well, the LIST is supposed to be about $73 a gallon and my cost was $53 a gallon. Holy no-smoke! This better work!
Long live American manufacturing!
June 18, 2016 at 12:03 pm #38509Here is where I get it. It’s a little cheaper.
http://www.syntheticsusa.com/d/5336810June 18, 2016 at 12:21 pm #38511A "Boathouse Repair" is one that done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.
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This reply was modified 6 years, 8 months ago by
Tubs.
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This reply was modified 4 years, 4 months ago by
Tubs.
June 18, 2016 at 2:34 pm #38515I have always been one to run at or above the recommended oil in my premix in the interest of the longevity of the motor. I am, however, very interested in being able to run these motors as long as possible and keeping the environmental impact as low as possible at the same time.
Tubs and I had a little side conversation and I decided to try this out for myself. I picked one of my motors to use as a test mule. It’s a 62 Johnson 5.5 I rescued from the parts pile. It’s got a LOT of hours on it already and it looks rough but it’s a good runner. It’s nothing special and I don’t have a lot in it so the knowledge and experience I get from the testing will be worth much more than the whole motor if I do have a failure. I bought some of the Pennzoil Full Synthetic and I’m planning on running it at 3 oz per gallon (Tubs’ go to ratio for everything 2 stroke). I have not had this motor apart to inspect or measure anything, but I will check it out the best I can without tearing it down before I start. Nothing will give me a feel for things like doing it myself. I say if you have a motor that won’t be a huge loss if it does get damaged and you are willing to or want to try this out, go for it. If the Scott was mine is wouldn’t hesitate to run it on 40:1 and might eventually work my way to 50:1. If nothing else, the use of the biodegradable oil has got to be much better for the environment.
I’m certainly not tree hugger but certain things do make me feel better about myself if I can help reduce pollution while doing something I enjoy. It seems I enjoy lots of things that contribute to pollution so if I can help out where I can and not give these things up, then that’s better for everyone. That’s my take for what it’s worth.
-BenOldJohnnyRude on YouTube
June 18, 2016 at 4:46 pm #38521quote Tubs:quote rudderless:Oiling requirements are different for 2strokes and 4strokes.
Lube requirements for these older 2strokes are different than newer ones.
One needs to use the mix no leaner than suggested in the original owners manual.Thought this was covered already…[/
quote]In the 1920s and early ’30s oil refining was more art than science. Quality seemed to depend on the phase of the moon. Evinrude did extensive testing (Everything on the motor was supposed to last at least 1000 hours.) Whenever a perceived failure in lubrication happened, the tendency was to add more oil to the gas. The recommended mix for the Racing 460 was a quart to the gallon. (Yes – one gallon of oil to four gallons of gas)
Government funded research during WW2 brought vast improvements in manufacturing and chemistry. Having to meet government specifications brought more uniformity to the oil industry. Further testing proved that much of the piston scoring thought to be from a lack of lubrication, was from carbon deposits from excessive oil flaking off combustion chambers and getting caught between the piston and cylinder wall. This resulted in less oil being recommended. Lubrication charts from the mid 1950s reflect these changes. . . . . . 😀
Haven’t given my oil rant here for awhile. Don’t know how
much, if any, good it does but I’m not one for giving up.
The 1950’s were the days of black and white TV,
rotary dial telephones, and oscillating fans for cooling
on a hot summer day. There has been tremendous amount
of engineering to bring us huge flat screen, remote controlled
color televisions, air conditioning most everywhere we go
along with it being in the vehicles we use to get there, and
of coarse the smart phones that we have today. This same
effort has been put into developing and improving 2 cycle oils
so they provide better lubrication at greatly reduced amounts
over the straight weight non-detergent 4 cycle crankcase motor oil
listed on these decade’s old charts that was available at this time.
Especially synthetics. Here are 2 examples.1 – In the late 60’s and through the 70’s I was a pretty serious dirt biker.
At that time you would need to bore the cylinder and install a new piston
at the end of each season. As I remember you could go out .050 before
you needed to replace the cylinder. We would run them 2 seasons and
sell them while they were still worth something and by new ones. In
1975 I bought a 400 MX and broke it in on 24 to 1 Yamalube. Then I
changed to Amsoil 2 cycle oil. To be honest I didn’t run exactly 100 to 1
as that would have been a little over 6 ¼ oz. for 5 gallons and I had a cup
mark at 7 oz. that I used to mix 5 gallons of fuel at a time. I ran that
bike 3 seasons and there was never indication of piston slap where I
normally would have had to bore and replaced the piston each year. 3
years and it never needed a piston rebuild using less oil.
2 – I was heating with wood at this time and its when bought this chain saw.
It got the same mix as the dirt bike. I still have it and used it twice last year
after storms brought trees down here and at my daughters. Its had a lot of
use over the last 40 years and the recoil starter is worn out so its hard to get
started but once I get it going it runs as good as it ever did.
I can understand the fear of damaging a motor so I doubled the amount
and rounded off to 3 oz. per. gallon (I am presently using Pennzoil Marine
Full Synthetic) and run that in every 2 cycle motor, including my outboards,
going on 40 years.Its in our own best interest to have the same concern for the planet that we
have for these motors. Putting excessive amount of oil into our air and water
for no good reason can jeopardize our ability to even have a place to run them
not to mention the air and water.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RKTZWCFGwo8If youre having to bore the cylinder and replace the pistons, then its safe to say, that you’re not using enough oil. Dirt bikes and chainsaws work a lot harder than outboards and run hotter. More heat, effects viscosity. I run my air cooled two strokes at 16:1 and no thinner than 24:1. Again folks
Oil is the cheapest thing you will ever put in an engine. A little more oil, reduces the wear, therefore prolonging the life of your engine. Why do we continuously want to skimp on it??
June 18, 2016 at 7:20 pm #38525Because man has a need to game the system whenever possible. 😀
June 20, 2016 at 11:35 am #38652A "Boathouse Repair" is one that done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.
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This reply was modified 6 years, 8 months ago by
Tubs.
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This reply was modified 4 years, 4 months ago by
Tubs.
June 20, 2016 at 1:24 pm #38654quote Fisherman6:I picked one of my motors to use as a test mule. It’s a 62 Johnson 5.5 I rescued from the parts pile.This test might take quite a few years as your test motor has needle bearings on the big end of the connecting rods and is of the same design as the later six horse motors which ran on 50:1 with sleeve type bearings on the cranks main journals. To give a motor a real test, you’d want to sacrifice a 1960 or earlier 5.5 with sleeve (friction) type bearings on the rods.
One thing I know, I’ve seen several 5.5 and 7.5 horse motors over the years with a connecting rod hanging out the side of the block but never a blown six horse when these motors were using a 50:1 mix with dino oil. 🙁
I wonder if full synthetic would have saved this motor.
June 20, 2016 at 1:47 pm #38657If I come up with a motor with all plane bearings in the powerhead that I feel like I want to run this test on, I may try it. You are right though, Mumbles. This motor is probably not the best candidate due to the needle bearings on the big end of the rods. It is what I have right now to test on. I have a CD 12 that has a bunch of hours on it too, but it is still in line to be brought back to life. It’s nothing too special so maybe that one once it’s done. I know these 5.5s and especially the 7.5s were known for connecting rod failures due to lack of lubrication.
As for the _______ in the video blowing up the Evinrude, well, I don’t know what to say about that. That makes me angry and a little sick to see. Fortunately for him and me that wasn’t my motor and I wasn’t there. The only way full synthetic may have saved this motor is if the idiot on the tiller would have drank it first.
-BenOldJohnnyRude on YouTube
June 20, 2016 at 1:53 pm #38659 -
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