OMC 9.5 HP Power head

[crosbyman]

actually it came that way…  except for the blueuish paint on the cavitation plate     it still had the  break-in  oil ratio sticker on the side  after 55+ years

I wacked the  oiled pistons with a wooded peg   for a week  to free them up  and  did the usual  carb coils points etc… thing on it

$50….my best buy ever  🙂

 

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[Evinrude 25]

Hello Fleetwin,

I clean up the cylinder with light Emery cloth and create and cross hatch pattern (look pretty good on the pictures). I spray both pistons with Sea Foam Deep Creep Lubricant and let sit overnight. Then I install the head with the old gasket on the cylinder (put some OMC gasket sealant around the ring since using old gasket ). I just want to see if the compression jumps up before I order a new gasket. Now the reading is somewhere 58/59 psi for both cylinders (1-2 psi shy under the compression before 60/61 psi). I use the cordless drill to turn the flywheel continuously so it eliminates the cause of the short pull start rope).

[crosbyman]

don’t get to worried about your #s for now …. just run it under full load with  a good  engine cleaner  product.           install a new head gasket ! no goop to block  water  circulation

run it at 40/1 and  report back  with  results  🙂

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[fleetwin]

OK, a little confused.  Did you pull the head, inspect, and replace the head gasket?  Or, are you just retorquing the head bolts?  If so, 96-120 inch pounds is the torque spec.  I realize you can’t get at the lower bolts with the torque wrench, so just use a decent box wrench (3/8″) I think, and give it a pull, I’m sure you can reasonably “guestimate” the torque without stripping the threads.

Like others have said, if the engine starts easily and idles nicely, chances are the powerhead is in good shape.  I can’t remember if you mentioned changing the gear lube/doing a water pump job, probably a good idea if you haven’t done this already.  Be sure to check/change the upper driveshaft oring, and lube the driveshaft splines liberally with OMC moly lube before reinstalling the gearcase.  The upper driveshaft splines on these engines tend to get rusted seized into the crankshaft splines, especially if used in salt water.  D

[Evinrude 25]

Good Morning Everyone!

Last a couple week, the weather in Ontario was up and down with snow and raining, I did not try to run it.

Yesterday was nice so I took it outside and tried it out on the barrel. It started easily with one or two pull (using the rope wrapped around the flywheel since I broke the manual rewind starter part #0314586-Spring Retainer. It costs $105.99 or could buy a used assembly for $79.99 from Ebay. In my opinion, it is a bad OMC design since its weakest point it at the end tip made from alum and easily broke at this point. I think someone should be able to duplicate it with steel instead of aluminum).

Please watch the video link I post it on youtube and let me know. There was a miss happened regardless I try to adjust the idle needle but the hiccup did not go away.

https://youtube.com/shorts/IsdvTqQ4lec

 

 

https://youtube.com/shorts/IsdvTqQ4lec?feature=share

 

[Evinrude 25]

Other video

https://youtube.com/shorts/SmIpnARIyfQ?feature=share

 

[crosbyman]

the hesitation is very cyclic…. have all the electricals been worked…. especially the condensers.

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[dave-bernard]

key to not breaking them is engage the starter gear before pulling to start. not just yanking.

[crosbyman]

try tim’S outboard  for spare  starter parts

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[crosbyman]

#0314586-Spring Retainer….. have you considered a long bolt  or similar rod  with the  top side  beefed up and slotted   may be cheaper that 105U$ !!!

 

 

not certain… would this part  solve the problem  it is about $15

9.5hp spring retainer – Recherche Google

 

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