Preserving old finish

[Dirtdad]

So, I have always wanted a cool old outboard to just display in  my man cave. Only problem is, I dont have and probably never will have a man cave. We do, however, have a cabin in Big Bear Lake, CA.  At a garage sale, a gentleman was thinning out his collection of old outboards, and I was able to buy a 1950, 3 hp Johnson, model JW-10. It is in reasonably good cosmetic shape, and I welded up a stand for it, and just want to keep on a corner of a deck. I dont want to  repaint it, but would rather just preserve the original finish, while protecting it from the elements, sun, rain, snow. Kind of want the “patina” look you see in vintage cars. Question is, will I damage the existing stickers, if I spray something like a 2K clear with hardener, or is there something better? I plan on taking it apart, clean it with say simple green, and spraying the individual pieces, and reassembling.  Any words of wisdom? Suggestions?

Thanks in advance.

On another note, it turns free, its complete, and feels like it might have good compression. I might like to get it running just for fun, but thats for a later date. I do have a love for old outboards, my first one was a Gamefisher 7.5 hp, I think really an Eska. Next I had a 1963, 40 evinrude on a 1955 11 1/2 foot glasspar, that I and many friends learned to ski on. Also a 1961 Johnson 75 hp, V4 . A , I think late 70’s Chrysler 70 hp, and last 2 stroke was a Evinrude 150 V6. I currently have a 2014, 60 hp fuel injected yamaha, on a 15 foot Calibogie (pretty much a Hobie Power skiff).

[JACQUES]

don’t know about a clear coat  but why not just give it a  gentle rub with a compound wax for cars followed with 2 coats of good car wax . see picture on a 5.5 johnson  one side rubbed & waxed  one side still crudded a bit

 

BTW..great little kickers those  3hp JWs……  a mag rebuild , carb and impeller job should get you happy trolling all day long .

clean out the tank and mesh filter on the small side valve..clean out 2 very small vents in the  tank  cap.

coils likely gone so just redo all electricals with 7mm copper or metallic strand 7mm wire.  see 6hp coils …just like yours

 

p.s. JW10= 1952…1954

good & cheapest book    to service it….

https://watercraftmanuals.com/outboard/johnson/johnson-302231.htm

 

 

Joining AOMCI has priviledges 🙂

[George Emmanuel]

I would suggest not using a cleanser like SimpleGreen….My experience is it will damage the finish….same with most type degreasers. I agree with the waxing. I’ve done that multiple times with a nice appearance afterwards.

George

[Don]

You must be very careful while cleaning to avoid damaging the decals/paint.  No expert here, but I would avoid spraying it with clear cote or anything like that.  Use a relatively gentle cleaner and pick an obscure area to test to ensure the paint/decals are not affected.

Once you have the engine cleaned up, you may just want to wipe it down with a soft rag coated with oil.

1 user thanked author for this post.

seakaye12

[Tubs]

If you follow the prep. for applying the clear coat you’ll pretty much destroy what you’re trying the preserve. Repeated waxing would likely be you best option but preservation and sticking something out in the weather 365 is like putting white carpet in the kitchen but not expecting it to get dirty. Mother nature is going to take her toll on more than just the paint and decals. Nice original examples are not common. Junk motors are. Get one (or some ) of them.

A "Boathouse Repair" is one thats done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.

[Dirtdad]

Thank you all. Sounds like wax is the best way to go. Ill also get my wife to make a cover for at least the cowl, that I can keep on thru winter.

Also, thanks for the link to the manual. Ill probably go ahead and order that. If I go and try to get it running, Im sure Ill be back here.

[Dirtdad]

I am disassembling the outboard, to clean it, and also because I want to see how it works, and try to make it run, it pulls thru easily, and looks very clean. I have removed the gas tank, skirts, and flywheel. The coils are cracked, is this common? What causes it? The points look good, with no “tits”, or burning. I looked for coils, and some popped up on ebay, for around 40.00 for 2. Same seller has plug wires, and a carburetor rebuild kit. My carburetor had been removed, and I dont know if its all complete, so think a rebuild kit would be good. Is the stuff offered on ebay O.K? I will probably never use the outboard, but dont mind spending a few dollars to make it run. I figure if it fires up, then Ill buy an impeller. Also, it looks like the gas tank is aluminum, and peeking inside with a flash light, looks pretty clean. Any suggestions on further cleaning it? I have cleaned gas tanks on small motorcycles, and sealed with Por 15, but I dont think that is appropriate for this tank. Should I worry about the condensers? Im sure I can clean the plugs. What kind of compression should I be looking for?

Sorry if Im rambling on, and thanks for any answers, or suggestions.

 

[bkrsdoz]

When I get a new addition to my collection, I first clean up the whole motor starting from the top. I use WD-40 as a cleaning agent, as it is not really any good for lubrication. It works very well cleaning off old crud and dirt from motors. I spray on the WD-40 and spread it around by hand with no rag so it will clean and not simply get absorbed by using a rag. Use an old toothbrush to get into crevices, and let it sit a bit while you work on another area. Then start wiping it down with clean rags. WD-40 will not harm original paint or decals. Works for me!

[outbdnut2]

The JW-10 is not a 1950 (Maybe you have a typo in your post?). The JW-10 was sold in 1952 and 1953.

I used car polish/cleaner on the one below. The paint wasn’t real good to begin with and it’s due for another polish after being outside a few summers.
Dave

[outbdnut2]

bkrsdoz wrote:

I use WD-40 as a cleaning agent,

WD-40 stands for “Water Displacement – 40th try at the formulation”. Wiping your motor with WD-40 has an advantage in that when it dries, water beads up and rolls off (is displaced). I don’t know how long it will last if used on something kept outside. I use it in the keyholes of locks on the rear window of my pickup topper, as it keeps rain and melting snow from running inside the keyhole and freezing/corroding. I respray into the locks every few months. I agree that it’s not a good lubricant – mainly because it dries up , no longer providing lubrication, except for a slight surface film.

Dave

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