Pressure Tank Problem

[stanley]

I have read the previous posts on this topic,but didn’t see this covered.I have a motor w/pressure tank that will only run a short time and then quit.Pump the primer it starts runs and quits again etc.etc.There is plenty of pressure released when the cap is opened so I assume the pressure part is good.I am going to open it up and take a look to see what is obstructing fuel flow.(I have rebuilt the connector and replaced the hoses).What should I look for and what kit should I plan on ordering.Just the gaskets or the full kit?

[chris-p]

Check the anti siphon valve, its in the pickup behind the screen. It should rattle, when you shake it. maybe partially stuck closed? Or junk in the screen.

[fisherman6]

Stanley,
I would recommend getting the full kit with gaskets, plastic washers, and diaphragm. When you have the top off the tank, clean everything up and check the condition of everything inside. Make sure the valce disc is free to move. The diaphragm in the one I rebuilt was disintegrating and pieces of it would end up in the carburetor. They are not too tough to do. If you can rebuild a carb you can handle the pressure tank kit. Once it’s done it’s done for a long time. Worth the peace of mind. I also avoid ethanol gas in all my outboards and other small engines these days. Ethanol breaks down rubber parts and corrodes carburetors.

The one I did has the aluminum button. I have another one of those and a plastic button tank to do yet.
-Ben

OldJohnnyRude on YouTube

[jerry-ahrens]

I’m surprised that pumping the primer button will help it run, despite the fact you are getting good pressure build up at the tank. When you open the tank, it should have a lot of pressure inside, not just a small amount of ”hiss” when the cap is cracked open.I think it would be wise to do a complete go thru on the tank, and check the valve that Chris mentioned. There are also two metal ”discs” located under the diaphragm. They are easy to loose when taking the assembly apart. Another common leakage [air] point is the pressure relief valve disk. The pressure relief valve releases excess pressure build up out thru a small passage [hole ] on the side of the tank cover [housing]. I like to use my wife’s Widex bottle to check the entire assembly for leaks. On an EMPTY tank, I use an air blow gun inserted into the ”air” hose and while leaving the ”fuel” hose still hooked to the fuel connector, go ahead and give the tank a couple shots of air. Don’t try to inflate it, just 2 or 3 psi will do. Use the Windex to find any leaks. Now, if you put to much pressure in, the over pressure relief valve will open to relieve the excess pressure inside. This is normal. You can make your own cork gasket easily, or drop by the dealer for a new one to make it easy. Myself, I prefer the cork and tank surfaces to be clean and dry with no sealer.

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