Proofing against corrosion with threads?

[mr-asa]

quote Archangel:

Wasn’t there some discussion in an earlier thread — possibly on the lost boards — that suggested that copper or nickel anti-seize was a no-no, especially for salt-water motors, as these created a galvanic reaction that actually exacerbated the corrosion?

Actually, it came up on another of my threads, not sure if that is the thread you’re talking about though
Anti-sieze does generally contain another type of metal which can promote corrosion, however I think that due to the nature of how it’s made it overcomes that.
I am sure I can find an engineering paper on it somewhere, I’ve got a NASA written one about thread galling somewhere in my email sent to me by a friend. A lot of the info is distilled in this
http://www.fastenal.com/content/feds/pd … alling.pdf

Galling isn’t necessarily the issue here, but I’m sure some of the concerns overlap.

[jeff-register]

BIG 10-4
Jeff

[Tubs]

A "Boathouse Repair" is one thats done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.

• This reply was modified 7 years, 2 months ago by Tubs.
• This reply was modified 4 years, 11 months ago by Tubs.

[moxie-man]

I had heard about different antisieze compounds for different situations but have never seen an article on it. Does anybody know of a link to a site on this. I have been using permatex number 81343 on everything. Is that bad or making it worse in the end?

Also I remember 7 years back reading about an aerospace antisieze used on the space shuttle. It appeared to be water,high temp, etc resistant and was expensive $150 to $200 for 6 oz (or so I remember). Wanted to do a lifetime buy(was 45 years old then) but did not. Does anybody know of this antisieze or its website? My thought is with money which I have spent on motors,tools,cleaners that $200 is nothing in the long run.

[kerry]

When they started mixing aluminum parts in car engines, I learned the hard way that a good antiseize was mandatory on bolts. I have been using Loctite Silver for years without any issues. If I am not worried about originality, I will replace the bolts with studs. Nuts and lockwashers are MUCH easier to remove years down the road.

If you have too many, AND not enough, you're a collector.

[frankr]

Well, as most of you know, I have years of experience of working on salt water motors. And I am going to possibly raise a howl here, but I am going to say that NOTHING will prevent fastener corrosion in aluminum in salt water. But the OMC Gasket seal does help, and I routinely used it. BTW, OMC did use it back in the day. OMC’s Anti-Corrosion lube (grease) is great stuff too. asa, you suggested an anaerobic thread sealant. That is great stuff (Locktite blue) and works in the area of actual thread engagement. But it would be difficult and expensive to try to fill the complete fastener length/hole. Besides, the hole generally is considerably larger than the bolt, too much gap for the sealant to work.

I had a customer that worked for FPL, and every time he brought his motor in for any service, he brought along a tube of greasy stuff that they used on power lines. He swore up and down that it prevented corrosion of the wire connections, even out along the beach. And it did help, I guess, on his motor. But 100% guaranteed satisfaction? Did I mention "nothing"?

There is something that helps tremendously: Never put it in salt water. If you do, wash and flush. But don’t kid yourself, the flushing isn’t going to get in the bolt holes.

[billw]

Just to throw this thought into the mix: Yamaha (I know; who cares) often calls for white pipe thread sealant, PTFE I think it’s called, for their corrosion prone bolt areas. We have been doing a bunch of blown-up F350 power head jobs lately. (Despite what the communist "Consumer Reports" might say, the Japanese are not perfect, either.) We have to take the entire mid sections apart, to clean out the oil pan, which resides there. You can smell the PTFE when you take the bolts out. They actually use some at the factory! It seems to work pretty well….

Long live American manufacturing!

[Casey Lynn]

What better location to learn what thread lubricant/protectant is best than the Miami, Florida and the Keys area?
All they see down there is salt water stuff. We used to recommend gasket sealing compound for years and it is not bad.
They are using teflon based pipe thread sealant (PTFE) on threads that go below the water line and are having the most success with this than anything they have ever tried.
These guys know it works better than anything they had tried previously and taught us about it so we helped spread the word.
Yamaha probably learned this down there as well.

[frankr]

quote Pappy:

What better location to learn what thread lubricant/protectant is best than the Miami, Florida and the Keys area?
All they see down there is salt water stuff. We used to recommend gasket sealing compound for years and it is not bad.
They are using teflon based pipe thread sealant (PTFE) on threads that go below the water line and are having the most success with this than anything they have ever tried.
These guys know it works better than anything they had tried previously and taught us about it so we helped spread the word.
Yamaha probably learned this down there as well.

Boy, you got that right! I was shocked when I saw some of the motors down in the keys. It’s bad here, but much worse down there, only a couple hundred miles south. I guess ours is diluted by rain water.

[johnny-infl]

one addition would be to drill out the mating half holes just a little
and put a piece of Shrink Tube on the shoulder of the bolt.
The shoulder will also seize up in salt use.
I have started using the generic aluminum paste anti-seize on the threads.
IMHO – pure 100% silicone actually promotes corrosion – so I never use that on anything aluminum.
Will get back to you in 20-30 years for the update.

[Author]

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