- This topic has 23 replies, 7 voices, and was last updated 1 year, 4 months ago by
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Bill, The factory spark plug gap spec is .025 – point gap is .020.
I don’t know how valid this is but my spark test for these is to
ground the plug to the motor and spin and the flywheel by hand
as fast as I can. I won’t get a spark every time because the magnet
isn’t always in the proper location but if I get a spark occasionally
my experience is they will run.
These things can be a bear to get going for the first time, epically
after they have been apart or motor has been built from parts,
I suspect this is caused by the lack if a good seal at the rings and/or
bearings. Start with 5 oz. of oil per gal. Get one of these driver bits
so you can spin your motor with a drill. Spin the motor with the mag
lever between 3 & 4 O’clock, moving the mixture screw from O to 1/4
turn open going back to O from time to time to be sure it isn’t
getting flooded.
I couldn’t get this motor to start on the boat.
Got it started out of the water.
Back on the boat it didn’t run well. Notice the mag lever position.
https://youtu.be/53yTD4zf17c?si=99QpB7_l9ZvhV9G4
After a few days it got better and it ran great on 3 oz of oil per gal
the rest to the summer.
https://youtu.be/3BVbHBJSHgk?si=k9ufSuUP26V-9EfK
I do have one that is worn enough it needs 4 oz. of oil per
gal to create a good enough seal for it to run.
A friend has a Ranger that is so worn out it wont run at all
but its the only one I’ve ever seen that is that bad.
As a last resort you can pull the cylinder, put some grease on the
piston and on lower main bearing to make a known good seal. If none
of this will make it run for just a little bit, other than some mechanical
issue, its most likely spark and I’m at a loss as to what it might be.
Tubs
.A "Boathouse Repair" is one that done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.
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