Home Forum Ask A Member RBM Tanks

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  • #4844
    Tom
    Participant

      US Member

      I would like to fabricate a tank for my Caille RBM. Does anyone have successful experience doing this using copper or brass sheet? I will assume that the top and bottom plates have rolled over edges that fit into grooves in the side piece, then the pieces are soldered together.

      How / where does one obtain that side piece with the grooves for the top and bottom pieces?

      Tom Manley
      Mansfield, MA

      #40980
      RICHARD A. WHITE
      Participant

        Lifetime Member

        Do you Facebook? I ask because there is a guy on the AOMCI Facebook page named James From, he has posted some work he has done to repair the old tanks. His skill set suggest he would be able to make whatever would be needed. He probably could offer great advice on repairs as well..

        http://www.richardsoutboardtools.com
        classicomctools@gmail.com

        #40982
        Tom
        Participant

          US Member

          I don’t Facebook, but I can look him up on my kids’ account. Thanks,

          T

          #40983
          RICHARD A. WHITE
          Participant

            Lifetime Member

            He is in New York…..younger fellah

            http://www.richardsoutboardtools.com
            classicomctools@gmail.com

            #40984
            PM T2
            Participant

              Canada Member

              The panel that forms the sides with the folded edge is all one piece that runs all the way around the tank. The folded edge is called a Pittsburgh seam. You need a good sized metal brake in order to form that seam properly. The top and bottom panels, you can do those yourself, you will need to cut some steel plate to make a form/pattern in the shape you want, and them hammer-bend the edges of your sheep metal over the edges of the steel plate. Obviously takes some patience and careful measurements and planning to make sure your forms or patterns give you the desired finished dimensions.

              James From has done quite a bit of salvation work on old tanks, I’m not sure he was fabbed up a complete tank. When I talked to him on the phone, it seemed that he specialized in repair work as opposed to replacement, but check with him anyway to be sure.

              I have parts to make a Lockwood-Ash tank out of brass, I will take some pictures and email them to you if you are interested in seeing them. The side panel is currently one very long straight strip with the Pittsburgh seam on it. It still has to go through a roller in order to create the radii for the rear corners. The front corners are more of a conventional square or sharp bend and have very little (if any) radius to them. The L-A tank is very similar in shape to the Caille that way.

              You can use copper or brass sheet, galvanized or tin will be much cheaper and easier to get in the thickness you want, they are all easy materials to solder so that isn’t an issue.

              Hope this helps.

              best,
              T2

              He's livin' in his own private Idaho..... I hope to go out quietly in my sleep, like my grand-dad did..... and not screaming, like the passengers in his car...

              #40985
              Tom
              Participant

                US Member

                Thanks, that’s very helpful. Gotta research Pittsburgh seams…

                Tom

                #40993
                chris-p
                Participant

                  Another option to create the pittsburgh seam, is to find a local sheet metal or industrial insulation shop. They will have a machine the puts the seam on your metal for you, short of using a sheet metal brake as described. It is called a lock former. Then, the mating piece is made by running the cap through an easy edger.

                  If you have your metal cut, you need to add 7/8" to the side panels to allow for the lock former, as it will shrink this much due to the folding process. So that is 1 3/4" total to your piece. For the cap, add an extra 3/16" typically, that is the bend that will lock into the sidewall, then use a sheet metal hammer to finish off the edge, then solder.

                  I have this equipment, as by trade I am an industrial insulator and sheet metal worker. I have been thinking of making up some tanks. If you need, I may be able to help fabricate it.

                  #40995
                  chris-p
                  Participant

                    Chris,

                    I was reading your Outboarder write up the other day actually about the tank you made, looked beauty!

                    Did you hide the vertical seam on the panel behind the flywheel? Did you put a Pittsburgh on that seam as well, then solder it. Fine work on it indeed.

                    #41000
                    PM T2
                    Participant

                      Canada Member

                      Here’s a photo album giving a few more details on the circular tank I made for a Spinaway-built Hiawatha rowboat motor.

                      http://picturetrail.com/sfx/album/view/19995792

                      I hid the seam on the side panel under the filler neck casting. Cut a window for the fuel opening then stuck the filler neck ca sting over the window. I wasn’t 100% happy with the solder job I did, but I ain’t perfect, and it didn’t leak.

                      Hope this helps.

                      Best,
                      PM T2

                      He's livin' in his own private Idaho..... I hope to go out quietly in my sleep, like my grand-dad did..... and not screaming, like the passengers in his car...

                      #41001
                      RICHARD A. WHITE
                      Participant

                        Lifetime Member

                        My hero….

                        http://www.richardsoutboardtools.com
                        classicomctools@gmail.com

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