RD-14 Carb Kit?

[wyo307]

Does anyone know where I can buy a carb kit for a 1953 Johnson RD-14 25hp? Or is there even a kit available? This motor has been giving me quite the work out trying to pull start it and I think that I have narrowed the problem down to some seals in the carb so any help would be great! This motor was ran dry then put into an old barn for who knows how long until I found it and bought it for $10 :shock:. It should be a good runner but right now it is hard to start and quickly dies after. Thanks for any help.

[frankr]

Pretty similar to the ’55, but not quite. Best to just order the separate parts you need

uploading pictures

image upload no size limit

[1946zephyr]

You can see about getting a plastic float through marineengine.com. one for a 28 or 33 should work. Kits might be available through vintageoutboard.com as well.

[1946zephyr]

quote Wyo307:

Does anyone know where I can buy a carb kit for a 1953 Johnson RD-14 25hp? Or is there even a kit available? This motor has been giving me quite the work out trying to pull start it and I think that I have narrowed the problem down to some seals in the carb so any help would be great! This motor was ran dry then put into an old barn for who knows how long until I found it and bought it for $10 :shock:. It should be a good runner but right now it is hard to start and quickly dies after. Thanks for any help.

How do the coils look? Often time, ignition faults can make us believe the carb is at fault. If that has the original coils, then its very likely they’re shot.
I never go into a carb, until I see that the ignition is up to parr.

[wyo307]

quote 1946Zephyr:

How do the coils look? Often time, ignition faults can make us believe the carb is at fault. If that has the original coils, then its very likely they’re shot. I never go into a carb, until I see that the ignition is up to parr.

I have not pulled the flywheel to look at the coils because when I hooked my tester up to the plugs I was getting a VERY hot spark on both cylinders. Both the top and the bottom have good compression as well. I rebuilt the old pressure tank so I know that is not the issue. I have all new fuel lines from the tank to the motor and inside the cowling to the carb so I am thinking it is in the carb somewhere.

[fisherman6]

If it were mine I’d still check the coils. If they are the original ones they will need to be replaced due to cracking. If they are cracked they won’t last long and are not worth trying to save with new ones available at a very reasonable cost. I think the RD will have an inspection hole in the flywheel, but I could be wrong. That should allow you to see the coils by just removing the recoil and a small cover plate.

I’m with Zephyr, I always make sure the ignition is right before starting in on the carb. Unless I know the motor, though, I’ll end up going through the whole ignition and fuel systems and the water pump to make sure it is a reliable runner. Having a good hot spark off the bat is good news for sure though.
-Ben

OldJohnnyRude on YouTube

[frankr]

The coils absolutely are cracked unless they have already been replaced. Easy enough to take a look through the port in the flywheel.

[chris-p]

Cracked coils can still throw a good spark. Until you are out on the water and they fail!

[1946zephyr]

quote Chris_P:

Cracked coils can still throw a good spark. Until you are out on the water and they fail!

That is exactly right. Times two here
A lot of times, old ignition parts will test good on the front yard, but out on the lake, it’s a whole different story. That is because of all the humidity in the air a foot or two, above the water line. Cracked and/or old ignition components will continuously trick you here. 😀

And yes, the RD that year does have an inspection port. I actually have a ’53 Big Twin with the flywheel off as we speak.

[Author]

Posts