Repairing cracked solder joints in 1922 Elto Light twin tank.

[Monte NZ]

Help needed please, in how to repair leaks in the fuel tank on the above motor.
After carefully inspecting the tank I have discovered several hairline cracks in the solder joints near the drain bung.
I believe that these have occurred as a result of the motor being lifted by the tank over the years, rather than by the power heads over the last 95years. Apart from this problem, the tank is in very good condition with hardly any surface rust and only some shallow dents.

Thanks very much in advance for any help.
MonteNZ

[dave-bernard]

just solder it.

[Tubs]

If I understand you correctly the cracks
are in the solder and not in the tank itself.
Clean around the area really well with
purple power, super clean, bleach white,
or some other water base dirt and grease
remover. You want to rinse it really well.
Probably be a good idea to do this several
times. Your looking to get rid of all the
dirt, gas, oil, and paint? Now you can
re-melt the solder two ways. One way is
with a heat gun. Blower setting on low and
not too close you blow the solder out. Your
looking to get the solder to flow back together.
You want the tank sitting level as possible
with the bung pointing straight up so it
doesn’t fall over and create a new set
of problems. You can also re-melt the
solder with a propane torch but don’t put
the flame directly on the solder join. You
should be able to get the solider to re-melt
by just heating the bung staying away from
the bottom and side seam. With some luck
and if you have gotten all the crap out
the solder will just flow back together.

A "Boathouse Repair" is one that done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.

[Monte NZ]

Thanks Dave and Tub’s for your replies.
Yes, the cracks are in the soldered joints Tub’s.Your suggestions make a lot of sense and is the information I was hoping for. There isn’t any paint to worry about , just the nickel plating, so I’m not too sure what happens to that. I guess I will just scrape it off. You didn’t mention using acid flux when doing the soldering, but I would think that would be a must and to just make sure the tank was washed both inside and out thoroughly on completion.

Thanks very much once again.
Monte NZ

[Tubs]

Shouldn’t need any flux as your only melting the solder
back together. The tank and the bung are already
coated with solder. (tined) I don’t know when the
nickel is applied. Before or after assembly. Either
way it wont melt so it shouldn’t be a problem.

A "Boathouse Repair" is one that done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.

[jeff-register]

I wouldn’t use acid type flux, rosin flux maybe a small wipe above the joint just to remove any left-over crud. No bond when contaminated!

[Monte NZ]

Again, thanks Tub’s and Jeff for your additional suggestions……..it all helps…..much appreciated!

MonteNZ

[kees]

.
any fuel residues in the tank to worry about ? ……….
take care
take and………. 😆 leave the cap off for ventilation
you never know, better safe then sorry.
😎

[PugetSoundBoater]

For safety sakes, i would fill the tank with water while doing the repair. I know this is counterproductive to getting the motor running, but you don’t want that tank blowing up in your face.

"Some people want to know how a watch works, others just want to know what time it is"
Robbie Robertson

[Monte NZ]

Thanks kees and pugetsoundboater………very good advice!! I can assure you that I won’t be taking any chances on blowing things up. I will be very very sure to clean the tank thoroughly. I have heard of filling a tank full of exhaust fumes prior to using a naked flame is one way of avoiding an explosion.

Thanks again.
MonteNZ
PS I well remember my Dad telling me that you only need a very small amount of vapour in a tank to have an explosion!

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