Home Forum Ask A Member Sportwin Crankseal help

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  • #4729
    fishbrick
    Participant

      Hi all,

      What is the correct top crank seal number for a 1958 10 h.p. Sportwin.

      In advance, thanks for the help.

      #40071
      fisherman6
      Participant

        US Member

        Is this motor a 10hp or 18hp? The 10hp is a Sportwin and the Fastwin was 18hp in 1958. Just want to make sure you get the right number.

        OldJohnnyRude on YouTube

        #40073
        RICHARD A. WHITE
        Participant

          Lifetime Member

          You could try here:

          http://www.marineengine.com/parts/johns … And+Piston

          http://www.richardsoutboardtools.com
          classicomctools@gmail.com

          #40075
          fishbrick
          Participant

            My mistake, I meant to say Sportwin. Its a 10 h.p. Sportwin, here’s the model number from the plate 10016.

            #40076
            frankr
            Participant

              The link posted by Richard says it all.

              #40090
              fishbrick
              Participant

                Next question, after looking at the diagram, I see there’s the seal and then an O-ring. Which of these is the most likely to leak and cause blow-by in the flywheel and mag plate? Also what’s the safest method of replacing them without splitting the case?

                #40096
                Mumbles
                Participant

                  The O ring, which fits inside the carbon seal, is probably the culprit. It gets hard and cracks making a good seal impossible. The carbon seal rides on the bearing housing and seldom gives any trouble. If you replace the O ring, make sure to use an original OMC/BRP part for proper fit.

                  Both upper and lower crank seals can be replaced without splitting the cases. A snap ring holds the bottom assembly together while the top one can be serviced after removing the points cam. The carbon seal has two notches in it which can be used with two small picks to lift it out. I find small dental picks work good. Just don’t force anything or be too rough as the carbon seal can break quite easy.

                  #40123
                  fishbrick
                  Participant

                    So is it best to replace both of the O-rings at the same time. Or does the bottom O-ring hold up better because of the oil in the case? Also, there isn’t any visible signs of leakage on the lower end of the case.

                    #40125
                    RICHARD A. WHITE
                    Participant

                      Lifetime Member

                      If you have already separated the power head from the tower, I would recommend replacing both seals, simply because you are there. You don’t know if what is there is original or not so this is wonderful preventive medicine.

                      http://www.richardsoutboardtools.com
                      classicomctools@gmail.com

                      #40229
                      fishbrick
                      Participant
                        quote :

                        If you have already separated the power head from the tower, I would recommend replacing both seals, simply because you are there. You don’t know if what is there is original or not so this is wonderful preventive medicine.

                        At this time the case has not been separated from the lower unit. I bought this engine from the original owner, I think it’s all original, because all the bolts still have the original paint. Since it appears to be all original, I think it still has the original seal on the bottom. So, I’m guessing the seal on the bottom would be in good shape since there is oil in the bottom of the case. Is this plausible???? My goal is to get this running without unnecessary replacements.

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