Home › Forum › Ask A Member › Sportwin Crankseal help
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Mumbles.
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July 12, 2016 at 6:37 pm #4729
Hi all,
What is the correct top crank seal number for a 1958 10 h.p. Sportwin.
In advance, thanks for the help.
July 12, 2016 at 7:21 pm #40071Is this motor a 10hp or 18hp? The 10hp is a Sportwin and the Fastwin was 18hp in 1958. Just want to make sure you get the right number.
OldJohnnyRude on YouTube
July 12, 2016 at 7:28 pm #40073You could try here:
http://www.marineengine.com/parts/johns … And+Piston
http://www.richardsoutboardtools.com
classicomctools@gmail.comJuly 12, 2016 at 7:50 pm #40075My mistake, I meant to say Sportwin. Its a 10 h.p. Sportwin, here’s the model number from the plate 10016.
July 12, 2016 at 7:54 pm #40076The link posted by Richard says it all.
July 13, 2016 at 2:47 am #40090Next question, after looking at the diagram, I see there’s the seal and then an O-ring. Which of these is the most likely to leak and cause blow-by in the flywheel and mag plate? Also what’s the safest method of replacing them without splitting the case?
July 13, 2016 at 5:18 am #40096The O ring, which fits inside the carbon seal, is probably the culprit. It gets hard and cracks making a good seal impossible. The carbon seal rides on the bearing housing and seldom gives any trouble. If you replace the O ring, make sure to use an original OMC/BRP part for proper fit.
Both upper and lower crank seals can be replaced without splitting the cases. A snap ring holds the bottom assembly together while the top one can be serviced after removing the points cam. The carbon seal has two notches in it which can be used with two small picks to lift it out. I find small dental picks work good. Just don’t force anything or be too rough as the carbon seal can break quite easy.
July 13, 2016 at 7:52 pm #40123So is it best to replace both of the O-rings at the same time. Or does the bottom O-ring hold up better because of the oil in the case? Also, there isn’t any visible signs of leakage on the lower end of the case.
July 13, 2016 at 8:03 pm #40125If you have already separated the power head from the tower, I would recommend replacing both seals, simply because you are there. You don’t know if what is there is original or not so this is wonderful preventive medicine.
http://www.richardsoutboardtools.com
classicomctools@gmail.comJuly 15, 2016 at 2:46 am #40229quote :If you have already separated the power head from the tower, I would recommend replacing both seals, simply because you are there. You don’t know if what is there is original or not so this is wonderful preventive medicine.At this time the case has not been separated from the lower unit. I bought this engine from the original owner, I think it’s all original, because all the bolts still have the original paint. Since it appears to be all original, I think it still has the original seal on the bottom. So, I’m guessing the seal on the bottom would be in good shape since there is oil in the bottom of the case. Is this plausible???? My goal is to get this running without unnecessary replacements.
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