Starting Procedure

[chris-p]

Looking for the guys that have run the newer, late 80s 30hp OMC electric start tiller motors.

What cold start procedure do they like? I believe on this model pushing the key in activates the solenoid? It does not have a choke. Has the idle speed adjustment on the end of the tiller as well I believe.

Have to set one up tomorrow, but been a while since Ive worked on something that new!

Will only start on a high throttle setting, and you have to continually bump in the key, non stop, to keep it going.

Im guessing it must have a fuel restriction, but wanted to extract some advice before I get into it tomorrow.

Cheers

[beerman57]

Push in keys should activate the primer (choke). Be sure to squeeze the ball on the fuel hose till firm. Some motors need a lot of choke. Has it been sitting for a while, is the carb clean?

[chris-p]

I just dropped her in the test tank quick to see what was going on. Im assuming I need to go through the carb, it has been sitting, but could not remember the procedure on these. I know it has a manual over ride on the solenoid for purging, but do not believe you need to on the electric start models.

[frankr]

Push the key in and hold it in while turning to crank the motor. Once it starts, it will be necessary to "bump" the key for extra fuel to keep it going till it warms up enough to run without extra priming. Especially in cold weather. In fact, in cold weather, it may require enriching the slow speed needle. I even have to do that here in our Florida "cold" winter weather. Is it getting chilly up there yet?

[johnyrude200]

I’m still ‘cutting my teeth’ on the ‘newer’ 20-25-28-30-35’s, but so far, they aren’t all that complicated, and aren’t all that dissimilar to their predecessors the 18-20-25’s in terms of personalities/set up. If anything, they remind me a lot in terms of design of the 9.9/15hp motors.

I have observed that they generally run their low-speed mixtures at 3/4 to 1 & 1/4 turns out. If you’re running it in a barrel, it probably needs to be run a little richer because the motor won’t breath as well, it also may not idle down as low (at least this is the trend I’m seeing in my 275 gallon tote, I use a fan too to minimize ingestion of exhaust gases both personally and by the motor!).

If it won’t idle down low, you have a fuel system issue, likely the carb needs a going-through, or the usual stuff (check compression…should be 135+ on my gauge…a nice one will run up to 180 PSI when all oiled up..maybe even north of that!). Agree with what everyone else has to say about using the key to give the motor some burps of fuel when first started.

But usually after a minute, it should run fine with a wide open choke.

A late 80’s model has a nice priming system configuration so it should start pretty easily…I mean, fuel into the carb throat, manifold, and cylinders…it would take a seriously low-performing ignition NOT to ignite that much fuel in the air!

A lot of extra mini-fuel lines to save people 2-3 extra pulls on the manual starter…

[fleetwin]

Well, as usual, I’m cornfused. You mention electric start tiller motors in your first post, then go on to talk about a key switch. So, my question is do you have an electric solenoid/primer, or the manual three position primer mounted on the engine pan? These different style primers have completely different operational procedures.
Like others have said, both systems require that the fuel primer bulb be pumped up first, or the primers won’t work properly. The electric primer is NOT a pump, only a valve that opens when you push the key in. The manual primer is a pump, but there must be fuel pumped up and into the manual primer in order for the pump to work when you pull the knob all the way out. Keep in mind that the manual primer has THREE positions: OFF/WARM UP/PRIME
This system can be frustrating for new owners because they pull the knob out and release it a few times to prime the engine, then start the engine, only to find it won’t idle once warmed up. This is because the manual primer was left in the warm up position which allows a little bit of fuel to bypass the primer into the carb while warming up. Once the engine is warmed up, this extra bit of fuel floods the engine at idle causing it to stall, the customer did not realize the knob must be pushed all the way back in once warmed up.
Like Frank says, the electric primer usually requires that the key switch be pushed in and held in while cranking (with warm up lever raised a bit). Once the engine starts, you can release the key from the prime position, but you will usually need to tap it in every few seconds during warm up to keep it running. The engine RPM should be between 1500-2000RPM during warm up, revving the engine excessively creates a cold running condition, along with the obvious mechanical hazards.
The one problem you will see happens on both systems. Debris gets caught in the brass nipple near on the carb near the intake manifold. Technicians are often fooled when they pull the primer line off the nipple, then activate the electric/pull the manual primer and see fuel squirting out of the hose assuming the system is working properly. But, the fuel is not being pumped into the carb throat because the brass nipple is plugged up.

[chris-p]

Thanks All. Will have a look at it today.

Don, it is electric start, tiller model. Has the key switch in the lower pan of the motor. Has the electric primer.

[fleetwin]

OK, sounds like someone altered it then. The tiller electrics usually had the manual primer with a push button for the electric start. I’m guessing someone converted a remote electric to tiller electric, nonetheless the electric primer works as everyone described.

[chris-p]

Well finished her up today. Was raining for a couple days so did not get to testing it.

Im embarrassed to say, the problem was my "test" gas tank, which was left outside, got water in it. Quite a bit of water.

Put a different tank on her with fresh fuel and she fired instantly.

Darn you fuel tank.

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