steering friction adjustment screw

[billw]

You don’t want to snap that one off, because it’s a tough place to drill. If you have access to a small, battery powered electric impact gun, and adapt a 3/8″ drive, wide, straight blade driver bit to it, I find that is the best way. Of course, heat it quite hot with a propane or Mapp gas torch first, just below the screw. Even if it burns the paint, nobody is going to see it, in that area, anyway. Pictured is a really tight one that I had. Even with the screw out, I had to press it apart, do to the corrosion build up Frank mentioned.

Long live American manufacturing!

[olcah]

Gave it a good try but the screw head broke off so I will disassemble to remove the steering yoke and drill thru.   I appreciate all the good advice but the screw was badly rusted.  Thank you everyone!

[billw]

It’s really for the best. When you take them all apart and clean them out, they steer very nicely, even with one finger, if you like it that way.

Long live American manufacturing!

1 user thanked author for this post.

olcah

[fleetwin]

joecb wrote:

As bobw indicates, one needs to consider the relative thermal expansion rates of the two dissimilar materials here. Aluminum expands about twice as much as steel at the same temperature. Heating the aluminum and cooling the steel screw will maximize any potential gap between the two pieces allowing for the possible entry of a penetrant.

Note the words “potential”  and “possible” …. a bit of old fashioned luck may come into play as well

Joe b

“luck” is the most important ingredient for sure.  But, in this case, I’m thinking a little heat is all it needs.  Even if the screw head gets destroyed, you can still get small vice grips on it and work it gently while heating.

1 user thanked author for this post.

olcah

[William MacNeill]

joecb wrote:

Let time be your helper on this.  Suggest applying some heat ( propane torch) to the aluminum boss that the screw goes into… just warm, not enough to burn the paint. Appy penetration oil ( I don’t think much of WD40 as a penetrant) , then light hammer, tap – tap on the head of the screw. Then go have beer. Come back a few hours later and repeat, and repeat … maybe until you run out of beer. Can you grab the head with vice grips? maybe a long nose pair?

Joe B

Great advice.  Only thing is I were to wait to run out of beer my liver would of quit functioning before the screw broke loose. Patience is key.

[Tubs]

We feel your pain but the reward will come
with a successful repair.
Tubs

A "Boathouse Repair" is one that done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.

[olcah]

Took the motor leg apart, drilled and tapped the old screw.  Broke a vibration mounting and found the inner upper phenolic ring was cracked but should be able to find those two parts.  Drilling thru the old screw was difficult because of clearance with the drill chuck.  Used a hand drill (eggbeater drill), with patience and luck.

Thank you everyone I appreciate the good advice.

[joecb]

Good work in getting that screw out. Not to be too picky, but I would replace that philips screw with a nice beefy filister head screw… you will appreciate it in the future.

Joe B

1 user thanked author for this post.

olcah

[billw]

I’ve got a small selection of stainless, 1/4-20 Fillister heads, if you want one. I also have a bunch of rubber mounts, unless you want the top center one. Good ones of them are a little harder to come by.

Long live American manufacturing!

1 user thanked author for this post.

olcah

[olcah]

Billw,

I appreciate you offering the rubber mount and filister head screw.  I expected to follow up but checked in the garage first.

I have a parts 1956 Johnson 30 HP.  One of the rubber mounts is same as the one I broke.  The friction screw is the same too, filister head.  So except for the phenolic liner I am  set.

Thanks again.

(The phenolic liner looks the same too but is cracked.  I can get one on eBay. )

[Author]

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