Stubborn Lightwin 3hp folder gearcase

[jpatti75]

Gents,

I’m working on a 1966 Lightwin folder, and the gearcase components are a bit rusted/corroded and consequently giving me some fits in the dissaembly process. With some heat, penetrating oil, and patience, I was able to remove the union at the top of the lower driveshaft that engages the upper driveshaft. I can’t, however, get the steel pin out of the driveshaft that prevents the union from turning. Applied heat and penetrating oil, and so far it still won’t budge… and it is solid unlike the roll pin beneath it. Any other means of "persuasion" I should consider? If the prop and assembly isn’t also corroded on, I may just open up the gearcase, and remove the pinion gear so I can pull the lower driveshaft out, assuming that’s an option?? One of the water pump cover screws snapped, so I can’t get the cover off easily right now, so the whole thing is just being a bit stubborn.

Appreciate any recommendations!
JP

[20mercman]

Can you saw it off flush and file/grind it down enough to get it apart and then drill it out? I don’t have any experience with these, but if the pin is not hardened, you should be able to drill it out I would think. As far as getting out broken bolts, I have had great luck using a TIG welder and building up the bolt enough to be able to get a vice grip on it. The heat from welding really aids in getting penetrant into the threads. I have done this on several recent Hurricane blocks. The last one had 13 broken bolts in it between the exhaust baffle and the water jacket cover, and I was able to get all of them out. These were the worst I have had to date.

Steve

[jpatti75]

Thanks, Steve. I was thinking about that very solution, too. I think the pin may be stainless (???), so drilling it out might be a chore, but it might be the only viable option. Not too worried about the snapped screw for the w/p cover. That one hopefully won’t be too bad to drill out and tap (famous last words).

13 broken bolts on a hurricane block … yikes!!! You’re a patient man!

[retiredoz]

If you can get the water pump housing off, you can just pull the lower driveshaft out of the gear case (like the book tells you not to do). No need to get into the gearcase, unless you want to for other reasons. And yes, pretty sure that pin is stainless. Why do you need to remove the coupler ? If you’re just doing the impeller, just pull the drive shaft out and mount the impeller from the bottom..

[collectorinspector]

Could you post a picture of what is giving you grief?

BnC

[jpatti75]

quote retiredoz:

If you can get the water pump housing off, you can just pull the lower driveshaft out of the gear case (like the book tells you not to do). No need to get into the gearcase, unless you want to for other reasons. And yes, pretty sure that pin is stainless. Why do you need to remove the coupler ? If you’re just doing the impeller, just pull the drive shaft out and mount the impeller from the bottom..

Hi Ozzie,

Well, the pinion might be rusted onto the driveshaft too, as the driveshaft doesn’t want to pull out of the pinion too easily. I didn’t want to tap it too hard and risk damaging the housing. I think I need to open this bad boy up and fully understand what I am dealing with … either way, the seals should be done if I can salvage the lower unit.

BnC, I’ll try to get a picture up tonight.

Thanks for the help guys.

JP

[retiredoz]

If all else fails, that gearcase is interchangeable with any other JW(or Evin 3-hp) model thru ’69. You just need to liberate the driveshaft..

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