TD20 Driveshaft Seal – Any experience with removal?

[John Gragg]

Heavily edited…sorry, I guess I write si much it doesn’t all get read…lol

Does this seal fit into a collar or sleeve (in the d/s housing)? Parts diagram says no?  I used a blind seal/bearing puller to pull the seal from my spare gearcase (as a test). Then I fought with what I thought was a remaining part of the old seal for 2 hours, gave up and tried the new seal and it fit just fine with whatever was still in the shaft well.

1. Is there a better way to pull the old seal?

2. Does the pic below look like a complete seal?

3. 3rd pic shows the new seal with a thin ring around it. That ring is the part I could not get out.

Thanks all!

Best Regards,

John Gragg
RIverside, CA

Just starting in the hobby, please be patient.

48 Sea King 5hp GG9014A. Sold
49 Sea King 5hp GG9014A
48 Johnson TD20. Sold
49 Johnson TD20. Sold
54 Johnson QD15. Sold
55 Johnson CD12. Sold
57 Johnson RJE-19M
57 Johnson RDE-19

[Buccaneer]

My parts diagram shows the same seal for both the pinion shaft and prop shaft,
part 41-62. Not sure what that number evolved into.

 

 

Prepare to be boarded!

[frankr]

41-62 > 307563 > 0321788 > (Sierra 182032)

[aquasonic]

It looks like you got the entire seal minus a few tiny pieces of the rubber. If the new seal fits, then the sleeve that you mention must have been by design. Those original seals were well made. Does it have the work “GARLOCK” on the seal?

In the last picture, the sleave looks to be a little out of round maybe from trying to pry it out. If you can reach it and it’s clean, a few carefully placed drops of loktite around the outside radius of both seal and sleeve might provide additional protection from water intrusion.

Improvise-Adapt-Overcome

1 user thanked author for this post.

John Gragg

[John Gragg]

aquasonic wrote:

It looks like you got the entire seal minus a few tiny pieces of the rubber. If the new seal fits, then the sleeve that you mention must have been by design. Those original seals were well made. Does it have the work “GARLOCK” on the seal?

In the last picture, the sleave looks to be a little out of round maybe from trying to pry it out. If you can reach it and it’s clean, a few carefully placed drops of loktite around the outside radius of both seal and sleeve might provide additional protection from water intrusion.

Yes, Garloc seal for sure. Pic attached. Also a better view of the inside of the seal I removed. I’m really on the fence about trying to replace the seal on my ‘actual’ gearcase. Reminder, this is all happening on my spare gearcase, as a ‘test’ since I was so nervous about replacing it because of the remote location of the seal. If I mess this up, I’m kinda up a creek.

I’m on the fence on whether to try to replace it on my working gearcase or not. I wish I had taken pics of the empty spot after I pulled the old seal…

FYI – My ‘working’ gearcase has a “CR” seal, part # 307563.

I have ‘tested’ the seal by putting the driveshaft in place, filling the cylinder with colored water and rotating the shaft. No leaks into the gearcase. Do you think I’m good?

Thanks –

John Gragg
RIverside, CA

Just starting in the hobby, please be patient.

48 Sea King 5hp GG9014A. Sold
49 Sea King 5hp GG9014A
48 Johnson TD20. Sold
49 Johnson TD20. Sold
54 Johnson QD15. Sold
55 Johnson CD12. Sold
57 Johnson RJE-19M
57 Johnson RDE-19

[John Gragg]

So I thought I would update everyone on this really quick.

I was looking to find out if there was a sleeve or cup or something other that fit into the driveshaft well, and that the 41-62 (Sierra 18-2032) fit into.

I asked because once I pulled the old seal from my TEST gearcase, I was certain (I was WRONG) there was something either left behind by the original seal (GARLOC) or a sleeve that the seal fit into. Yes, even though the parts diagram does not show it, that’s what it looked like to me.

The TEST gearcase is not suitable for a couple of reasons we won’t go into.

I got up the courage to pull the GOOD gearcase apart and removed the seal. (CR 307563) I knew something was wrong, but couldn’t put my finger on it. The old seal popped right out, almost no damage. Unusual as heck.

See pics below. Someone installed a 2nd seal on top of the original, when they couldn’t get the original out. So I pulled that seal as well.

Here is where my answers came. This time I took a really good look (and a barrel brush for a 16 gauge shotgun) at the driveshaft tube and saw that what looked like a lip or sleeve was just buildup of old crud. I used a little PB and the brush on the end of a long brush shaft (on my cordless drill) and gently cleaned the heck out of the cylinder where the seal goes.

Installed a new seal with a tiny amount of Ultra Black around the rim and Viola’!  (Based on an old thread I found from Buccaneer I ordered the seals from Grainger. Its a 4985 I believe? I went with it because it is exactly the same as the 18-2032, except it is taller (by a little). I’m going to be resealing the prop shaft also so I want the depth to be there like the original as much as possible.

So, there it is for future reference. I should have known, but at least now I do know.

I knew the part numbers, I knew how to pull the seal (I was asking for a better way) and now I know the answers.

 

Thanks,

John Gragg
RIverside, CA

Just starting in the hobby, please be patient.

48 Sea King 5hp GG9014A. Sold
49 Sea King 5hp GG9014A
48 Johnson TD20. Sold
49 Johnson TD20. Sold
54 Johnson QD15. Sold
55 Johnson CD12. Sold
57 Johnson RJE-19M
57 Johnson RDE-19

[Buccaneer]

Glad it all worked out. Hopefully we’ll get to hear it running!

 

Prepare to be boarded!

[Author]

Posts