Home Forum Ask A Member Tiller movement almost locked in neutral on Evinrude 18HP 1960 mod 15032

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  • #296022
    salnaes
    Participant

      I am having trouble starting my Evinrude 18HP mod 15032 because I cannot give the throttle with the tiller when gear is in neutral. If I try to give the throttle the handle stops because the “shifter lock” (part no. 203596) is hitting the “link & stop” (part no. 380696). So I cannot give the throttle without putting the engine in forward gear. Is this correct behavior? Shouldn’t it be possible to give the throttle when the engine is in neutral?

      The “shifter lock” stops against the “link and stop” but it could have gotten past if it was positioned 1 – 2 mm further out. Should I try to move the “shifter lock” out a little using a washer in center where it’s mounted?

      #296025
      crosbyman
      Participant

        Canada Member

        I would not change the design intent… try to find the cause why you would need to throttle up so much un neutral… if it is to start the engine you may have  a carb idle cct or carb  linkage  adjustment to make… the cam follower should line up with the bar marking on the  cam under the magneto in the START position.  and  points should open at TDC if adjusted properly.

        See the FD series in the Johnson service manual pages 278-279 which explains the function in neutral and… reverse I presume the Evinrudes work the same way and  presumably add boater  safety in mind  !! .

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        #296044
        seakaye12
        Participant

          US Member

          One thing I know from experience to look for is incorrect carburetor linkage pieces.  If the engine is unknown to you….someone in the past might have swapped some parts around and got them mixed up.

          If you can….try to have access to a similar engine and look everything over closely.  You should be able to “throttle-up” a bit in Neutral….enough to make starting easy.  If not…..something is set wrong or the wrong parts are installed

          #296048
          crosbyman
          Participant

            Canada Member

            if the choke closes properly, if the cam follower is set on the mark of the cam , if ignition is timed  and you have good sparks and the idle cct is clean ..and you have decent compression    no reason not to start at START

            see johnson service manual  FD series

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            #296050
            salnaes
            Participant

              Thank you all for your effort and time to help me. I will check the settings and do justifications if it’s wrong..

              #296052
              jimk
              Participant

                I just had the same problem.  I wasnt able to get much for rpms at the start position and turned out after checking it was only running on one cylinder. Corrected that everything was fine. Problem was easy once I figured it out. Had good spark on both but somewhere along the line I must have dropped the plug before installing it and the gap was closed LOL

                #296070
                salnaes
                Participant

                  Thank you all for all comments on this matter. I checked ignition timing today with multimeter , it’s perfect on both cylinders. I checked the cam follower today and it’s perfect on the mark at the time the throttle start opening. Spark plugs, wiring etc. are brand new. Gap is 0.30 on both spark plugs.  Ignition coils, condensers and breaker points are all brand new and properly set. The whole engine is totally overhauled and worked perfectly last summer. But I was wondering if the fuel might be an issue. The gasoline was stored over the winter, and was 98 octane with Star tron ​​enzyme added. With Start Tron added gasoline should work fine after winter season.

                  Last year there was no problems what so ever. When I tried to start this spring, I was pulling and pulling with no sign of ignition. So I had to put the engine in forward gear to give more throttle. Then it  finally started after much struggling. When I first got it to start, then it performed perfectly on all speeds.

                  Today I have checked ignition timing with multimeter, and there is an increase in measured Ohm just when the timing tool points right in the middle of the two tining marks. This goes both for top and bottom cylinder. So it’s perfect.

                  I also checked the movement of the throttle shaft, and it starts moving right at the point where the mark on the cam is aligned with the center of the cam follower roller.

                  I will dispose the rest of the old fuel and by some new fuel for my next start. I think this might be the solution to this problem.

                  #296072
                  crosbyman
                  Participant

                    Canada Member

                    I  store  with  full tank on my rig  and circulate fuel with EV fuel conditionner and carbon guard.  never had a problem at start up after 6 month  later in the Spring Unless you had bad fuel I doubt fuel is your problem but no harm in trying a new batch..

                    what is critical at start up is the suction from the crankcase  used to pull  fuel  on top of the carb and  down behind the throttle pate.

                    even if you ran fine last year  doesn’t take much to plug those fine  holes (3)  below the dime size plug as well as that very small channel sending fuel on top.  try openning the idle needle a bit  make certain you  have decent pull from the crankcase by placing your hand or apiece of paper in front of the  carb.

                    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MfTpU6HS4cA

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                    #296089
                    salnaes
                    Participant

                      I managed to get the Evinrude 18HP started today. I had to tighten the nut holding the high speed needle. It appeared to be some fuel leakage there. After tightening the nut I managed to get the engine started. Then it also was necessary to adjust the two needles to obtain proper operation. So it worked running in a barrel, but there were excessive oil smoke in the exhaust.

                      I disposed the fuel and filled up with new 98 oktan fuel and mixed 2% synthetic two-stroke oil (1/50). (I had used 4% previously). But there were still excessive smoke in the exhaust, even though I used half the amount of oil now. It didn’t look good.

                      I have read recommendations that I should use 4%, but a local dealer here in Norway recommend no more than 2% when using this synthetic oil.

                      Any thoughts why there is excessive smoke in the exhaust? It looks like incomplete combustion.

                       

                      #296097
                      crosbyman
                      Participant

                        Canada Member

                        run it on the lake and you will find it does not smoke that much…  and won’t suffocate  on it’s own fumes (helps the idle to)

                        quality oil makes a difference also  so it depends…. ( ex: mercury oil always seemed better and smelled better and smoked less on my Merc 50  and 45 hp )

                        I use no less than 1/25 mix   1 L of tcw3 for 25 L of fuel on these  oldies although some suggest 1/16   oil is cheaper than parts….:-)

                        smoke is good…for bugs 🙂

                        The Black Fly Song

                         

                         

                         

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