Timing marks 1955 Bigtwin

[Tubs]

When you set the timing on a car
you positioning the distributor to a
factory specification so the plugs
will fire at the proper time. The
ignition gets its charge from the
battery.
The timing in an outboard magneto
that your looking to achieve is wanting
the points to open exactly when the
polarity of the magnet changes as its
passing over the coil producing the
best spark. The purpose of Franks tool.
This is critical as to idle because the
slower a magneto turns the weaker
the spark.
While both these procedures are
described as timing one is totally
different from the other.

A "Boathouse Repair" is one thats done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.

[jerry-ahrens]

Agreed, a magneto outboard ignition system is totally different than an automotive distributor type ignition system. The battery supplies the primary voltage to the coil, as Tubs pointed out.
On your 55 Big Twin, you should check the mag plate (sometimes called armature plate) for wear on the pivot bushing. Wear on the bushing will cause the plate [where the points/coils are mounted] to wobble around at idle speed,(and while starting) thus making the point gap go all over the place. It will make the point gap impossible to stay in adjustment. The other variable is if you are using aftermarket points !
The pivoting point where the arm moves to open and close the points is so loose and sloppy, you will never get them to stay in adjustment. I tried a set of Sierra points a while back, and encountered the same problem yet again, terrible quality. Get the tune up kit for your motor at the Evinrude dealer, that also comes with new condensers, and your good to go. Using the timing tool (along with an analog ohm meter) to set the points is best, but you can get the job done with a .020 feeler gauge if done carefully.

[1946zephyr]

Huh! Well I’ve never done this, but then again, I’ve never had problems getting an outboard to run good, once new components are in. Setting everything correctly is a huge help.

[RICHARD A. WHITE]

I am with you Zephyr, I always just set the points at .02 and called it good. Until I heard about Frank making those tools. I got into a very enlightening discussion on JOM discussion board on this very subject. Where I was, to say the least, enlightened. This is what I have learned.

Using a feelers gage one can get it close and the motor will run. Might or might not idle well, might or might not start easy.
Using Frank’s timing tool and an analog ohm meter will get you much closer, now motor will most definitely start easier and idles bunches better.
I went even further, I have bought one of these:
https://www.aircraftspruce.com/pages/ep … onizer.php
Here is what I understand, and is is more than likely overkill.
The ohm meters check to see when the points open, nice to know, the magneto syncronizers tell you the moment of magnetic disconnect, which by all electronic smart guys is NOT the same point, they are close but NOT the same. Finding that point of magnetic disconnect vs the points "breaking" could be up to a degree or two of difference. Notice I said "could be". Using the ohm meter and the timing tool will get you very good results. I went one step further, the results were absolute crazy the difference in idle using a feelers gage vs. the timing tool and the Mag syncronizer. That 15hp, 1956 Johnson idled so low with 3 persons in my 14 Starcraft, the boat barley moved. Ask Greg Gardner, or Sherm Caldwell, they were in the boat with me.

Bottom line, get the timing tools and at least a good ohm meter. You will see a difference.
Respectfully
Richard White

http://www.richardsoutboardtools.com
classicomctools@gmail.com

[fisherman6]

quote Richard A. White:

I am with you Zephyr, I always just set the points at .02 and called it good. Until I heard about Frank making those tools. I got into a very enlightening discussion on JOM discussion board on this very subject. Where I was, to say the least, enlightened. This is what I have learned.

Using a feelers gage one can get it close and the motor will run. Might or might not idle well, might or might not start easy.
Using Frank’s timing tool and an analog ohm meter will get you much closer, now motor will most definitely start easier and idles bunches better.
I went even further, I have bought one of these:
https://www.aircraftspruce.com/pages/ep … onizer.php
Here is what I understand, and is is more than likely overkill.
The ohm meters check to see when the points open, nice to know, the magneto syncronizers tell you the moment of magnetic disconnect, which by all electronic smart guys is NOT the same point, they are close but NOT the same. Finding that point of magnetic disconnect vs the points "breaking" could be up to a degree or two of difference. Notice I said "could be". Using the ohm meter and the timing tool will get you very good results. I went one step further, the results were absolute crazy the difference in idle using a feelers gage vs. the timing tool and the Mag syncronizer. That 15hp, 1956 Johnson idled so low with 3 persons in my 14 Starcraft, the boat barley moved. Ask Greg Gardner, or Sherm Caldwell, they were in the boat with me.

Bottom line, get the timing tools and at least a good ohm meter. You will see a difference.
Respectfully
Richard White

Thanks a lot Richard… Now I have to get one of these too. 😉
-Ben

OldJohnnyRude on YouTube

[Mumbles]

quote Richard A. White:

the magneto synchronizers tell you the moment of magnetic disconnect

There was a discussion here a year or two ago about using the aircraft synchronizers on outboard motors but I can’t remember where it ended up. Now I’m wondering if the ATOM ignition modules don’t use this same principle since they improve the idling and starting characteristics so good.

[joecb]

Good info from Richard and Mumbles…. If I may, a point of clarification that may help folks understand this "timing" issue. Setting the points, either with a feeler gage , Franks’ tools or a light/ buzzer sets the optimum "timing" relative to the electrical operation of the magneto…opens the points to interrupt the primary current flow at the instant of maximum magnetic flux density. This this is a fixed relationship within the magneto and has nothing to do with piston position relative to top dead center (TDC). Timing of the spark relative to TDC is varied and controlled by the movement of the magneto plate or magneto body. So you see that for a motor having a magneto there are actually TWO separate and distinct timing issues.
I hope that this helps…
Joe B

[Mumbles]

Thanks for explaining that so everyone can understand it Joe. That’s pretty much what I was trying to say except the words didn’t come out right. ☺

[joecb]

OK, Great information here… Now, please more info from Richard on this magneto syncronizer. Looking at the link and the use info, I wonder how one gets to the appropriate electrical connections on an outboard mag when the flywheel is in place?? Richard , HELP???

Joe B

[RICHARD A. WHITE]

Flywheel must be removed, and Frank’s timing tool used to set points, actual gap is not as important as "when" the spark occurs.
I can do a seminar at Constantine…If that would help

http://www.richardsoutboardtools.com
classicomctools@gmail.com

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