Water Pump seals ?

[bunky]

I’m trying to put my 1966 Mercury 110 (9.8) back together I’m changing the water pump impeller, I noticed oil in the housing so I drained the lower unit and it had a slight out of water. So I want to change the lower seal I already bought an impeller kit (47-89981).

But I can’t find a parts listing for the seals

Anyone have the top and bottom seal numbers, or the part number for the rubber in the bottom housing for the pick up tube?

[bunky]

Found the parts.

[outbdnut2]

As you probably know, there are a number of seals in the lower gearcase. Here is a seal kit with all of them. You will need a special tool to take the lower gearcase apart.
Dave

http://www.marineengine.com/newparts/part_search.php?part_num=18-2628

[billw]

The reason the seals in the top and bottom of the water pump went bad is the fact that the drive shaft is rusty and pitted. It is, without a doubt, the biggest pitfall of all early Mercs.

Long live American manufacturing!

[bunky]

billw wrote:

The reason the seals in the top and bottom of the water pump went bad is the fact that the drive shaft is rusty and pitted. It is, without a doubt, the biggest pitfall of all early Mercs.

So do you dare use some Emory cloth and shine it up?

[billw]

It can’t hurt but it’s kind of like putting lipstick on a pig. Just cleaning the shaft will increase the sealing ability a tiny bit and lengthen the life of the seal, a bit. The real way to fix it is to disassemble the whole thing, and install a Speedi-sleeve….if you can get one that small. There are some early, small Mercs that are one shaft size smaller than Speedi Sleeves are even made. In that case, I have found some stainless tubing and made one, which was kind of laborious, given that I don’t have a lathe. When you do that, you then have to find a seal with a larger ID, to fit the tubing. All this is well and good but the labor is large, Speedi Sleeves are going to cost in the $50 range and that’s probably about what the whole motor is worth, right? I know. I have been there. If you want to use the motor regularly to fish or whatever, get an OMC or newer Merc . If you just want to make it run, clean up the shaft, put in new seals and impeller, run the thing for an hour, then take out the impeller, change the gear oil to preserve the innards and hang it on your rack.

Long live American manufacturing!

• This reply was modified 4 years, 1 month ago by billw.

[Matthew Pieklik]

I have sanded and cleaned the area then coated it with JB weld. Sanded it down . It filled in all the pitting nice and it held pressure. Not sure how long it will last. But in a pinch, It keeps your cost down.

[crosbyman]

if..and I say if it is going to end up on a rack would filling the GC with corn head grease by John Deere keep it going…… that stuff is suppose to liquify t some extent

Joining AOMCI has priviledges 🙂

[Tom Alexander]

Bills: In regard to SKF Speedo Sleeves, I just put on on a .625 driveshaft to cover the groove the old seal(s?) carved in it below the water pump letting water down into the pinion needle bearings and destroying them and the pinion gear and freezing the gear case. The SKF instructions say not for installation over splined or keyed shafts. Well I drove it over the splines and it went on without trouble, but when I examined the finished product I can just barely see sort of ‘flats’ on part of the seal surface, not all the way around but about a third. I am wondering if the seal will do it’s job with these there or not? Or will the seal happily run over these but maybe for not so long? Anybody have any experience with this sort of thing? Thanks Tom

[dave-bernard]

next time just polish the shaft it is going over to the area it rests on.

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