Well, The test started out well…..but then…

[oldemtr]

The part is steel, I believe, so mig welding is probably fine.
I’d think a couple good penetration tack welds, evenly spaced around it, should work – At least, that’s what I plan :~)

https://aomci.org/forums/topic/omc-pinion-shaft-shock-absorber/#post-162761

7th post down, tells how to do it.

• This reply was modified 5 years, 3 months ago by oldemtr.

[gjonz]

Just tack weld it is fine.

What happens is the spring when broken acts like a ramp and one end of the spring tides UP over the other and causes the cylinder to grow. Then it will usually crack the seal housing above is. So…if it’s deformed I’d venture a guess it is cracked.

With that said is will weld the shock absorber or there is plenty of meat on that bearing housing to shave some off the lower part of the bushing to allow for sudden expansion if the spring gives. Just use a file or sander and remove an 1/8 of an inch if you want to use the shock as intended.

But given the oversized spring in that cylinder, it will eventually give to fatigue.

Greg.

[stanley]

What OMC models had the troublesome shock absorber?Also,is it “shock”or metal fatigue that causes them to break?

• This reply was modified 5 years, 3 months ago by stanley.

[fleetwin]

drifter wrote:

I guess that I was due. I have run dozens and dozens in my tank and never had a problem. I am still confused as to why the water pumping issue came up. The bearing housing was deformed but not broken. The l/u oil was badly water contaminated. I have never had these issues come up like this. Do you think running with the water intake plate in place in the tank is an issue? I have always left it in place but read in an owners manual to remove it when running in a tank.

Are you sure the upper seal bushing housing is not cracked? Usually, this housing gets cracked when the driveshaft expands pushing up on the bushing housing…Once the housing is cracked, water enters the gearcase which would explain your milky gear lube. Is there signs of oil inside the impeller housing?
On the other hand, the milky gear lube might just be a coincidence, perhaps the gearcase has a different leakage issue not related to a crack in the housing….

[drifter]

Fleetwin, I cannot see any crack, and I looked with a strong magnifier. The deformity was barely visible and I worked flat with a brass 3/8″ drift. I checked everything with a flat steel 6″ ruler.
I didn’t see any lube in the impeller housing. The l/u had a brand new seal kit in it. (But, new doesn’t always mean good).

[drifter]

Well, I looked again. This time I do see a crack. Visible from the top side.

[fleetwin]

Where is the crack? What does the housing look like on the other side, is there a lot of wear from the driveshaft rubbing on the bushing? Perhaps the crack is more visible from the back side….

[drifter]

Look very carefully half way between the water intake hole and the perimeter of the seal. It’s a circular crack. Very fine but I can catch a nail on it. The shock must have hammered the bottom of the housing and fatigued the casting.

[BRENT BERGEN]

I think I can see the crack. It is circular and parallels the seal housing about 1/4″ offset from it. It runs from the Southwest area to the Southeast area, through the top of Southwesterly casting sprue? From the picture, it shows up more as a slight discoloration.

Improvise-Adapt-Overcome

[Tubs]

A "Boathouse Repair" is one that done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.

• This reply was modified 5 years, 3 months ago by Tubs.

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