Where’s my adjustment?

[wiscoboater]

Hi Guys,
Working on fine tuning the 66 FD 20 I have been working on. I’m trying to get the throttle synced properly. I have 2 issues fighting me.
1st issue is the tiller twist is really tight, hard to move. How can I loosen that up a bit so it is not so hard to turn?
2nd issue is the throttle timing. When I turn the tiller handle to where the roller lines up with the 2 hash marks on the plate, I have to go about 3/8" farther before the butterfly in the carb starts to move. I believe it should start to move at the hash marks, correct?
Is the adjustment for this moving the brass plate on the mag? Any help appreciated.

Thank you,
Wannabe

[PugetSoundBoater]

If it’s like the omc motors I have ,there are two screws attaching that "brass plate’ to the magneto base. Loose those slightly , one will pivot,the other is the adjustment bolt. Adjust that brass plate so that the throttle linkage arm roller just starts to move when touching in between those 2 marks. You may put an alligator clip with a small piece of wire attached to it , bent at 90 degrees and attach it to the throttle shaft and give you a better visual aid on when the throttle shaft JUST begins to move when the roller is touching in between those 2 marks. Tighten bolts and recheck. It may take a couple tries to get it perfect.

"Some people want to know how a watch works, others just want to know what time it is"
Robbie Robertson

[PugetSoundBoater]

In regards to the tiller arm ,basically every point at where it movessat 2 contact surfaces,along with the grease nipples(which probably are full of dried up old grease) needs grease.use Evinrude johnson multi vis all purpose grease. Someone here should be able to post a photo or diagram of all the points where grease is needed. The magneto base bushing /bearing needs grease . From that point every place it may bind all the way to the twist grip.

"Some people want to know how a watch works, others just want to know what time it is"
Robbie Robertson

[frankr]

Two very common places for it to get tight due to corrosion around the ID / OD of nylon bushings. One is the gear/shaft that goes through the tiller handle. The other is the one under the bevel gear on the vertical throttle shaft. You can diagnose it by the wiggle test. To fix it, you need to take the offending item apart and scrape the corrosion out and re-lube with some waterproof marine grease.

[wedgie]

On the tiller handle ,I take it apart with the exception of the roll pin that holds that stainless washer on the shaft. That pin is often stuck to the point it’s hard not to break it off when you try to remove it. Be careful if you resort to heat around that nylon bushing that Frank mentions. Ideally ,once you clean and lubricate the tight spots , let it sit for a few days and twist it free and slide the shaft through the bushing far enough to clean the part that rides inside the bushing. If you’re impatient like me, lube it up and start light tapping on the handle end of the shaft. Easy does it though, don’t want to damage the bushing.
Do you have any spares on your parts motors?

Started on your Mark 28 yet?

[wedgie]

[wiscoboater]

Thanks for the tips guys, and the pics wedgie. I do have a few spares from motors I converted to controls. The Mark 28 should be hitting the bench soon! I was missing the tiller handle that controls the auto transmission but Dave Bernard came to the rescue and sent me one. It should be here this weekend.
Learning how a Merc auto tranny works should be a real challenge. Of course getting the stuck piston free will be the first order of business. I’ll let you know how it turns out Wedge.

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