Wico coils IT RUNS!!!

[jim-moffatt]

I will take a different tack here. If the old coils have continuity they dont necessarily need to be replaced.
They can be sealed with epoxy or liquid electrical tape. Just dont try to take the wires off. The connections will be ruined.
The resealed coils should work fine unless you want to run in a hurricane or plan to dunk the motor 😀 .

The WICO condensers are almost always bad. Replace them with new ones from Russ Larson or Brillman.

[mini-motors]

No one plans to dunk a motor.

So, I had absolutely no luck in getting the donor flywheel off today. So I decided to go on the theory that the coils might not be bad. I went with my original idea of taping up the coils. I cleaned and set the points, and put the flywheel back on. Using a piece of rope, I spun the flywheel with an exposed spark plug in sight, and the spark is strong on both coils. Dodged that bullet. I’ll look for some liquid tape.

I might as well turn this thread into a rebuild thread. I had done the carb early in the week, and reinstalled it after I serviced the reed block. I have the needed fittings to do the fuel line, but I’m rethinking it, as the donor petcock doesn’t look as bad as I had thought. I pulled the lower unit off the donor unit just to see how difficult it was, and was surprised at how pliable the impeller was. But it is rusted on the shaft, and was a bit deformed. So I am optimistic as to what shape the other one is in, but I’m not disillusioned about what shape it’s probably in. And I know where they’re available.

I’m determined to get this Elgin motor going because I have an 11′ Elgin aluminum boat that my Dad bought new in ’61. I’ve found replica decals for the motor, but does anyone know where I might find ones for the boat?

[mini-motors]

OMG!! The impeller is perfect! Soft, pliable, not deformed. Remember when I said that luck doesn’t run well with me? This must be karma trying to make me look like a liar, because this is the second break I’ve had this week on this project. Now, this doesn’t mean that I won’t send off for another from Bob Long, but I won’t need to do it before my event in October. And I will need to get the donor impeller off the shaft to even do that.

[mini-motors]

Got it all together this afternoon, and it runs. Not well, but it runs. I’ll have time tomorrow to find the bugs. I have a small fuel leak to find as well.

But a new question. How do you tell if it’s pumping water? There’s a label on the left side of the motor that indicates some sort of flow, but I see no hole for water to come out. It an Elgin 7.5 w/ neutral, ’53ish.

BTW, I am so glad I serviced the lower unit. It was dry except for a dollop of water and some rusty residue. I cleaned it all out and found the 105 that was suggested in another thread

[dave-bernard]

spray out of the leg. feel the powerhead. those impellers were poor at best. jmho.

[mini-motors]

Do you mean here?

If so, I’m in trouble. No water is coming out there.

[Mumbles]

Try cleaning those little holes out first. They can get plugged up with carbon and restrict any water trying to get out.

[dave-bernard]

yes.

[mini-motors]

You guys rock. Cleaning out those holes will be a whole lot easier than getting the leg apart. I will attempt it right after breakfast.

[frankr]

The indicator with the decal pointing to is a deliberate gasket leak (has a slot cut in the gasket). Since it is so thin it is hard to see and gets plugged up all the time. You can use the poke and jab method with a piece of flattened wire to open it up–till it plugs up again.

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