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dave-bernard.
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October 16, 2022 at 6:52 pm #267757
I picked this motor up over the weekend .
WN 7A ser # 924974I have not nailed down the year . I assume it’s a Kiekhaefer Merc ?
Put it in a tank . Hooked fuel up and got it to fire up .
Before I could idle it down from start position it jumped into forward . Other than giving me an early bath I don’t think it hurt anything Lol!
Is there any adjustments to keep it from jumping so easily ?
Any other words of wisdom about this motor ? Oil ratio ?
Thanks guys for any help ..October 16, 2022 at 10:24 pm #267762October 17, 2022 at 5:58 am #267768For all the bad-mouthing that Mercs get, you’ll never see one jump OUT of forward, like OMCs do. There’s a strong spring in the prop shaft that constantly has forward pressure on the clutch dog. The engine stays in neutral or reverse, counteracting this spring, in two ways. One is by steps on the shift cam in the lower unit, which is fine when the engine is not running but not substantial enough to hold securely when the engine is running and shaking. The other is by a ball and detent arrangement at the top of the upper shift shaft. You may be able to see it near the aft end of the shift handle. This is a more positive detent than the clutch dog has; but sometimes the ball gets stuck from corrosion. My bet is, that’s where the problem lies. Another more subtle problem comes from wear in the spline connection between the upper and lower shift shafts, and/or a twisted upper shift shaft. These two conditions create a situation where the clutch cam detent and the upper ball detent do not coincide with each other, meaning that the two detents are basically fighting with each other, as to where the neutral and reverse actually are. When this happens, the big spring wins and it shifts into forward. Add to all this, the reverse lock mechanism. It too, has a ramp that has a tendency to favor forward. This ramp is adjustable, so you can try messing with that. But my money is on the upper detent ball being stuck.
Long live American manufacturing!
October 17, 2022 at 8:31 am #267772Thanks Buc for the chart .
I think it may be a 56 if we go by the ser # . But mine is a WN instead of a WM that’s on the chart . Not sure what the difference is ..Bill , that’s a good explanation on the shift mechanism. Thank you !
How about oil ratio ?
I think I read 50/1 somewhere ..October 17, 2022 at 11:08 am #267783WN is also on the chart, but I did not pay attention to the serial number
– Powermatic 12 WN-7 1955 845-973 851-972
Prepare to be boarded!
October 17, 2022 at 7:51 pm #267825Those Old Wizards & Mercs were 24/1 Oil Mixture.
1 user thanked author for this post.
October 17, 2022 at 8:24 pm #267827those merc wizards will run fine with mercury 50-1 oil merc recommended it when they first came out with the oil.
October 18, 2022 at 5:25 am #26783050:1 is okay because there are no plain bearings in it. That being said, I like to run my old Mercs, which are basically the same thing, at 24:1. I feel like it it’s a safety factor in case of a sudden overheat (What? A Mercury? Overheat? Nah….) and I also feel like it leaves the engine a bit more preserved when I am done running it. It’s been my experience that if your ignition is up to par, plug fouling is not an issue.
Long live American manufacturing!
October 18, 2022 at 8:41 am #267836Thanks everyone ..
Sounds like somewhere between 24/1 and 50/1 is safe .
I cleaned out the shift mechanism just past the lever . It did have a little gunk in there on the little indents that hold it in place .I do notice that if you have it in forward then shift to neutral it jumps back to forward easier it seems .
Placing it in reverse then neutral and it hold better .
Im gunna test out in the tank again and see how it acts this time ..October 19, 2022 at 6:24 pm #267924Another question. The LU gear oil . It does take regular fluid gear oil and not grease right ? It’s had the water pump and LU seals replaced . But what’s in there now is very thick and not running out .
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