Wizard WA-25 Magneto Removal

[chas56x]

I am trying to remove the magneto to fix a no spark condition. I followed the removal procedures as spelled out in the Mercury Mark 30 manual. However, when I tried to pull the magneto down to disconnect the shaft, It will only drop down about 3/8", not far enough to allow removal. It appears the the distributor cap is hitting a bell crank arm that is part of the speed control.
I can move the bell crank back and forth by turning the speed control twist grip, but it still hits the cap. The manual says that the magneto can be removed without pulling the power head. But it appears that that is the only way. Does anyone have any ideas or advice on how to remove the distributor without pulling the power head?

[dave-bernard]

the easiest way is to pull the power head..
try removing the did cap first. to give more room you can get to it from under the lower pan.

[mad-man-bill]

the one I removed I just unbolted linkage moved it dist drops down

[PM T2]

on the WA-25’s and Mark 30’s that had tiller steering, I found it necessary to remove part of the throttle and control linkages in order to get the magneto out. Otherwise, it was like smacking your forehead against the recoil housing for a couple of hours only to realize all you are doing is hurting your head and the damn magneto is still stuck in there.

have never pulled a powerhead off the tower to get a mag out of any four-cylinder Merc, but many swear by it. I prefer to just swear, and things work out OK.

Hope this helps.

Best,
PM T2

He's livin' in his own private Idaho..... I hope to go out quietly in my sleep, like my grand-dad did..... and not screaming, like the passengers in his car...

[chinewalker]

Yep, well chosen colorful language works every time.

Scott

[billw]

I have had the same problem. If you pull the power head, it will also be easier to set maximum spark advance adjustment….Which brings up a related subject…..The only way I have ever been able to do this is by disconnecting the coil wire from the points (which is internal, under the cap) setting the advance with a meter when the point break, then reconnecting the wire. Otherwise, my meter sees no real difference between open and closed points, because it is seeing the very, very low coil primary resistance. Am I missing something? I mean, basically it seems you have to pull the power head to set the spark advance point?

Long live American manufacturing!

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