Home Forum Ask A Member Having difficulty searching for info on my particular motor (9.5 Johnson)

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  • #8782
    Jim May
    Participant

      I am having problems searching for information on the Johnson/Evinrude 9.5 series of outboards. When I try to search, I get a message that the words being used are too common and the search doesn’t return any results. Based on a few comments I’ve seen as I’ve browsed through various topics, it appears that there has been quite a bit of discussion in the past about these motors so I am wondering if there is a method for finding some of those. Thanks for any help with this.
      Jim

      #68185
      Steve D
      Participant

        I don’t know a whole lot about those motors except what gets posted and I’ve tried to save some of that info in text files or PDFs so here is some of what I have on past discussions from more knowledgeable members, manuals, diagrams, etc. Will add more as I find it.

        viewtopic.php?f=2&t=14347

        Actually they were very good motors when new, and I liked them. But that is not to say they didn’t have their problems. First the good part: Except for the early years, they worked well and ran good with good reliability. Normal service work is easy. But we like to focus on the bad part, don’t we?

        The early models idled very poorly due to poor vibration suppression. That was fixed on later models and they ran fine. The upper front rubber mount was very prone to failure and a major job to replace. There is a rubber bellows boot on the shift rod also very prone to failure, and when it does, the motor runs poorly due to smoke inhalation. Some service work is very intimidating to the novice, requiring splitting the shell to remove the powerhead or that rubber mount, for instance.

        The worst part is this is 2013 and BRP has discontinued most replacement parts, including the rubber mount and shift rod boot.
        ———————————–
        Agreed, the early ones 64/65 had problems with idling and excessive shaking.I installed many anti-vibration kits on those in the late 60’s.———Good or bad motor ?—-I think they are great, and at 60 lbs at least I can still lift one of those.
        ———————————-
        Frank is right, those little motors are nice. Granted they are not the powerhouses like the 1959 to 1963 10hp Johnson/Evinrudes and definitely not like the power houses of 1974 to 2006 9.9/15hp Evinrude Johnson motor.

        They do run very well when serviced, just like other motors. Due to its compact design, they can be a bit harder to work on than most motors.

        The 1967 to 1973 9.5hp Johnson Evinrude motors have the vibration dampeners and run very low and smooth for trolling. Good fishing motor!! It will push a 10 to 14ft john boat quiet well!!

        The throttle can flip down for storage and has a handle made for easy carrying. The motor weighs about 56lbs. A bit lighter than most motors in the same HP range.

        Again, like all motors, you keep them up and service them routinely at home each season and you will have a fine motor.

        If you have a chance to get one at a reasonable price, then buy it.


        Attachments:

        #68186
        Steve D
        Participant


          http://www.leeroysramblings.com/OMC_9.5.htm

          CajunCook’s 9.5 exhaust seal leaks info

          The 9.5hp Evinrude/Johnson motors were known to have exhaust leak issues that would make a motor run poorly. Also, vibration dampeners were not added to the motor until late 1966 and definitely in 1967. So, the 1964 to 1966 motors idled a bit rough due to the excessive vibration, so the dampeners and slight carburetor adjustments improved idling from 1967 an on.

          Suggestions:

          – If you are running this motor in a barrel, then put a fan next to it so the fan can blow the exhaust gases away from the motor. The 9.5hp motor was built compact and sits low in the barrel, so it has a tendency to inhale its own fumes and idle and run very poorly. (Usually not a issue on the open water and while running and moving along.)

          – If the fan does not help much, then remove the motor cover. If the performance improves then you have a exhaust leak issue.

          There are four known areas that can leak exhaust gases inside the motor cover and smother the motor. That is why you have rev up the motor to run rich to stay running.

          Leak 1 = Is in the first attachment picture and is part # 87 SEAL,Exhaust housing. If torn, cracked, miss shaped over the years or trash collected in between the side and exhaust housing then exhaust gases can accumulate up near the motor.

          Leak 2 = Is in the first attachment picture and is part # 43 HOSE,Exhaust. If cracked, torn or loosely clamped then exhaust gases can escape and accumulate in the motor cover and smother the motor.

          Leak 3 = Is in the first attachment picture and is part #78 BOOT,Shift rod. If torn, cracked or missing then exhaust gases can escape and accumulate in the motor cover and smother the motor.

          Leak 4 = Is in the second attachment picture and is parts #6 SEAL,Impeller housing and part #7 WASHER,Seal. If missing then exhaust gases can escape and accumulate in the motor cover and smother the motor.


          Attachments:

          #68189
          frankr
          Participant

            US Member

            No matter what, those things won’t run well in a barrel with the hood on. Same reason you won’t live long if you stick your head down into all that thick smoke. So don’t confuse that with the 4 items listed that cause it to smother on a boat.

            #68190
            outbdnut2
            Participant

              US Member

              They were HP rated at the powerhead and newer 9.9s were rated at the propshaft, so they put out more – a significant, noticeable performance difference.
              Dave

              #68193
              crosbyman
              Participant

                Canada Member - 2 Years

                Leroy’s has a nice write up on them
                http://www.leeroysramblings.com/OMC_9.5.htm

                Joining AOMCI has priviledges 🙂

                #68196
                Steve D
                Participant

                  Jmay, In addition to the link I posted for the leroys ramblings article, I also created a PDF file for it and attached it, as well as a Service Manual and Parts Manual. But they are small and easy to miss, so I’ll just post all 3 here for your convenience.

                  #68197
                  Jim May
                  Participant

                    Thanks so much for all the replies. My particular motor is a 1966 Johnson so it is definitely prone to the early model issues.
                    A short background – It was acquired by my brother-in-law – he bought it from a widow on his mail route just because she asked him to. He’s never been one to fish or boat so he put it in his barn for about 20 years. When I got a jon boat about 10 years ago he passed it on to me.

                    I’ve used it 5-10 times per year since then. Beginning this year it has been hard to start and has been running poorly at anything over a slow speed.
                    I’ve never used anything but ethanol free fuel along with putting Stabil in the fuel.

                    I’ve had the carburetor off, disassembled and soaked in acetone followed by spraying with carb cleaner then blowing out with compressed air. I put in a carb kit (including removing and replacing the core plugs), removing the fixed jet (after I finally got a proper tool for that), replacing the float & needle. I also replaced the packing and washers on the slow speed jet. That jet had just a very little bit of wear on the part that seats (the "pointy" end) – but it didn’t have a groove.

                    It seemed a bit better when I tested it in a barrel, but when I went trout fishing last weekend it was still hard to start and at one point was missing badly. The river was so low I was unable to try to run it fast (plus I had one of my adult sons and his friend with me – we weren’t going to go fast anyway)!

                    Odd thing is that once it is started and warmed up, it starts on the first pull. I plan to try again on adjusting the slow speed jet to see if the starting improves. After that I will start working on trying to see if I have an ignition issue (plugs look OK although the top one is a bit damp with fuel –
                    not a lot) compared to the bottom plug).

                    Compression seems OK based on what I’ve read on LeRoys Ramblings (great info – as well as what I’ve watched that cajuncookone has done) at about 73 psi on both cylinders.

                    Also I will start focusing on the areas it can leak (certainly appreciate the pointers in the messages sent about that). I’m not much of a mechanic but I think leak spots 2 & 4 can be eliminated. I replaced the water pump a couple of years ago so those seals should be OK (I replaced the impeller a couple of weeks ago & they seemed fine then). From what I can see by just looking, the exhaust hose (#43) is OK. I’m not sure how to check the shift rod boot – l will pull the lower unit and see if I can spot it and tell if it is there and if so, what kind of condition it’s in.

                    Thanks again to everyone for the input and the links – the PDF’s are great and the part numbers really helpful.

                    #68198
                    outbdnut2
                    Participant

                      US Member

                      You can’t see the shift rod boot with the lower unit off, you have to disassemble the housing to see it and that’s a big job – it’s on the end of the shift rod that’s up in the housing. If it’s bad, the motor will still run fine with the cover off, and when you accelerate from slow to fast with cover off, you will momentarily see exhaust billowing up from inside the housing.
                      Dave

                      #68199
                      Jim May
                      Participant

                        Hmm – my comment about not being much of a mechanic is still true – not sure disassembly is something I ought to do. I’m much better at taking things apart than getting them back together the way they should be!

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