Caille Neptune Gas Tank Repair?

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  • Buccaneer

    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 5085
    Topics: 831
    #223914

    Tubs, Hopefully I don’t end up with a one gallon gas can strapped
    atop the motor with plumber’s strap!

    Prepare to be boarded!


    Buccaneer

    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 5085
    Topics: 831
    #223993

    Solder and Flux is on order. I dug around a found some sheet metal…
    either for practice, or finished tank…. depending what happens. I found
    some .028 thick for the top and bottom, and some .019 thick for the
    side band, which has the double bent lip to accept the top and bottom
    tank pieces.

    Joe B. suggested making a pattern (two identical) the shape of the tank bottom and top
    out of maple, then sandwich the tin, clamped between the two patterns for forming the lips.
    The lumber yard is fresh out of maple, but I found a piece of
    3/4″ plywood…. again, good enough for practice.

    So far I only have the bottom piece cut out and the lip formed around the
    3/4″ plywood.

    It seems I need 9/64″ diameter rivets. The original were steel, but I’d prefer
    brass. They seem to be hard to find online, but by chance, I’ll look
    through my dad’s old cache of rivets in a 5 gallon bucket just in case.

    More fun tomorrow.

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    dave-bernard

    US Member - 2 Years
    Replies: 1468
    Topics: 18
    #224000

    just another thought. save the wood and make a tank out of it and fiberglass it.

    • This reply was modified 10 months, 3 weeks ago by dave-bernard.

    bobw

    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 1522
    Topics: 47
    #224002

    Buc – that bottom panel looks like a mighty good “practice” piece to me! Very nice work! Keep posting progress pics.

    Edit – haven’t looked them up in a long time, but there used to be a place called Blacksmith Bolts that used to have a large variety of specialty bolts and rivets. Might try them for your brass rivets.

    Bob

    1954 Johnson CD-11
    1956 Johnson RD-18
    1958 Johnson QD-19
    1959 Johnson QD-20
    1957 Evinrude Fastwin 18

    "Every 20 minute job is only a broken bolt away from a 3-day project."

    • This reply was modified 10 months, 3 weeks ago by bobw.

    joecb

    US Member - 2 Years
    Replies: 498
    Topics: 63
    #224017

    Buc, Looking real good so far . I can’t tell from the pix, is that sheet metal galvanized? If so, looks to be dirty and/or oxidized (dark color) , be sure to clean to bright condition before attempting to solder.

    Joe B


    Buccaneer

    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 5085
    Topics: 831
    #224040

    Joe, the sheet metal is not galvanized. It has a little flash rust on it, and I scrubbed
    it with phosphoric acid and wiped it down with some WD40.
    Thanks for the reminder to clean it shiny before soldering.

    If I end up using these practice pieces for a tank, I was toying with the idea
    of putting gas tank sealer in it when I’m done. Pretty sure this plain
    sheet metal won’t hold together 100 years like the original Terne stuff.

    Prepare to be boarded!


    Buccaneer

    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 5085
    Topics: 831
    #224062

    Today I made the top gas tank panel, so that means I just have the side bands
    to do. I’m afraid the top and bottom panels were the “easy” part.

    I cut a piece of metal for the small side panel. There must be an easier
    way to fold over the “S” lips on the side panel that the top and bottom fit
    into. Evidently the Caille factory figured it out over 100 years ago.
    I have a sheet metal hand folder which is ill suited for these short bends.
    Not sure how it would even be done if one had a sheet metal brake.
    I did one side of a little scrap first, and even that was somewhat of a pain.
    The short side panel is 15″ long, and the one side side I formed with
    a lot of manual manipulation was a “big” pain.
    Any idea what magic tool they used at the factory for these short folds?
    Thanks.

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    • This reply was modified 10 months, 3 weeks ago by Buccaneer.
    • This reply was modified 10 months, 3 weeks ago by Buccaneer.
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    joecb

    US Member - 2 Years
    Replies: 498
    Topics: 63
    #224081

    That “S” bend is looking pretty good. When I did my back panel, which had to be 28 ” long, I used a matched pair of 1/2 X 1- 1/2″ cold rolled steel bars 30″ long to sandwich the sheet metal strip. The bars were drilled and bolted at each end to keep them matched. Insert the sheet metal , clamp in vice and add a couple of C clamps to ensure nothing moves. Cold rolled steel bar is best because it has sharp square edges for making the bend. Form the “S” step by step… one flange at a time. Inner bend first, then the back side of the 180*. Flatten the 180 *, last using a spacer strip to control the gap, close the “S”. Now turn the strip over and do the same on the other edge. Note that your steel bars have to be narrow enough to fit between the two “S” edges. Hope that this makes sense.

    Joe B


    Buccaneer

    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 5085
    Topics: 831
    #224082

    Joe, thanks for the help. Just going to bed, and too tired to think now,
    but I think I get the idea. Will see what I might have around to
    make a fixture like you suggest!
    Thanks.

    Prepare to be boarded!


    RICHARD A. WHITE

    US Member - 2 Years
    Replies: 1802
    Topics: 137
    #224084

    I think that is called a “Pittsburgh” seam????

    http://www.richardsoutboardtools.com
    classicomctools@gmail.com


    Buccaneer

    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 5085
    Topics: 831
    #224085

    Richard, from watching YouTube, Pittsburgh seams are very similar,
    other than the overlap of the folds.

    Prepare to be boarded!


    Buccaneer

    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 5085
    Topics: 831
    #224138

    I finished the smallest side panel today, and started on the long, 28″ one.
    The original small side panel simply had 90 degree folded edges
    that went over the top and bottom panels and were soldered.
    The longer side panel has the Pittsburg style crimps that the top
    and bottom panels “set into”.
    It was one of these simple folded seams on the original small
    panel that was “popped open” when I got it.
    Joe B. mentioned that he did both panels with the Pittsburg style
    joints.
    I’m not sure how to best join the small and long end panels together
    at their two end joints.
    Joe, did you join the side panels with any kind of locking joint,
    or overlapping 90 degree flanges, or ??
    Thanks!

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    joecb

    US Member - 2 Years
    Replies: 498
    Topics: 63
    #224147

    Buc, that job is coming right along…. looking read nice. Joints for the ends of the side panels…. I formed the same “S” on the ends of the long panel and just a 90* flange on the ends of the short panel to fit into the “S”.
    Noe your job is coming along so well that you deserve a reward. Did you find any bras rivets yet? if not, I have a few left that I’ll send.

    Joe B


    bobw

    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 1522
    Topics: 47
    #224148

    Buc – that kind of work is way beyond my skill set but it sure looks like it’s going to turn out really nice! Can’t wait to see the finished project!

    Bob

    1954 Johnson CD-11
    1956 Johnson RD-18
    1958 Johnson QD-19
    1959 Johnson QD-20
    1957 Evinrude Fastwin 18

    "Every 20 minute job is only a broken bolt away from a 3-day project."


    Buccaneer

    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 5085
    Topics: 831
    #224154

    Buc, that job is coming right along…. looking read nice. Joints for the ends of the side panels…. I formed the same “S” on the ends of the long panel and just a 90* flange on the ends of the short panel to fit into the “S”.
    Noe your job is coming along so well that you deserve a reward. Did you find any bras rivets yet? if not, I have a few left that I’ll send.

    Joe B

    Thanks Joe! That should make for a stronger joint than it was before.
    It would be a fun project “if” I had the proper tools, like a sheet
    metal brake. I’d like to spend a day in the Caille factory watching
    them make those tanks!

    I found some rivets, but none perfect. Some are steel, some may
    be too long, or too short. I think there were some brass ones
    the right size, but they have the hollow end, not sure about
    the length. I need to make a specialty punch for peening
    the hollow ended rivets, and do a little practicing on some scrap
    before I know if any of my rivets will work.
    Thanks!

    Prepare to be boarded!

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