Home Forum Ask A Member 1950 Firestone 10-A-73, 5hp Twin Cylinder

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  • #1198
    Buccaneer
    Participant

      US Member

      I progressed some today on taking the lower unit apart on my 1950
      Firestone 5hp. I used a little propane torch to heat around the
      stainless steel impeller housing, and was able to pop it out to get
      at, and drive out the drive shaft top bronze bushing, and lower needle
      bearing.
      There was no "seal" above, below, or between the two bearings,
      but there was one on the prop shaft.
      Being that this unit has needle bearings, is it suppose to use
      gear lube instead of grease? If so, why design it with no seal
      on the prop shaft to keep water out of the gear case?
      http://www.grayhitandmiss.com/Outboards/dscn4907.jpg

      I understand better how the detent works in the gear case cover now,
      but the brass detent didn’t appear to be screwed all the way in, and
      when I did so, I wasn’t able to budge the shifting fork, as there was
      too much pressure on the shifting cam.
      Is the detent suppose to be screwed in tight?
      http://www.grayhitandmiss.com/Outboards/dscn4905.jpg

      Bearings, Bushings, Seal
      http://www.grayhitandmiss.com/Outboards/dscn4906.jpg

      The Gear Set
      http://www.grayhitandmiss.com/Outboards/dscn4909.jpg
      If I understand correctly, both gears should have the ability
      to rotate freely on the prop shaft, depending on the gear selection.
      Right now, the outboard gear (forward?) will not spin on the shaft when
      the detent operating the clutch dog is operated. Looking
      at the outboard gear, it appears to be sitting on a Torrington
      needle bearing, so I’m guessing it’s froze up as well.

      Phelon Magneto
      http://www.grayhitandmiss.com/Outboards/dscn4911.jpg
      I have not tested the coils yet.
      Are Phelon coils from this era problematic?
      At least they aren’t all busted up!

      Thanks, Buccaneer

      Prepare to be boarded!

      #13894
      thumper
      Participant

        http://www.oddjobmotors.com/tt1_replacewico_coil.htm

        This link will show you how to replace the coils

        #13896
        thumper
        Participant

          Lower unit bearings can be purchased at any bearing place as they are standard manufactured bearings. Not special order.
          I will be using grease in mine. I am pretty sure they were meant for grease not fluid but I want to keep my lower end working if the seals start leaking. Use cornhead grease or lubriplate. Hope you were able to get the manuals I sent. My indent is screwed all the way in. The gear set bushings(flat washer style with raised nubslook like they are brass or bronze) can be worn. If they are you might need replacements.

          #13897
          frankr
          Participant

            US Member

            They use grease. But I’m surprised there is no seal.

            #13898
            thumper
            Participant
              quote FrankR:

              They use grease. But I’m surprised there is no seal.

              Maybe thats why they all have rusted bearings in the foot

              #13899
              wiscoboater
              Participant

                Be careful with the lower unit shift rod and fork. The threaded end of the shift rod is the weak link on these. Shift the lower gear case into neutral with the fork and then adjust the rod nut to the opening in the fork. If you force anything the threads snap off the rod. I bought one last year with this problem and had to fabricate my own rod. It was a lot of fooling around, but my rod is stronger then the original, and it shifts like silk now.

                #13903
                thumper
                Participant
                  quote wannabe outboard guy:

                  Be careful with the lower unit shift rod and fork. The threaded end of the shift rod is the weak link on these. Shift the lower gear case into neutral with the fork and then adjust the rod nut to the opening in the fork. If you force anything the threads snap off the rod. I bought one last year with this problem and had to fabricate my own rod. It was a lot of fooling around, but my rod is stronger then the original, and it shifts like silk now.

                  Buccaneer, This is absolutely true! they are quite delicate but work well once put together. This is awesome. I finally get to talk about the the only motors I have worked on so far and have now almost shared everything I learned in the last 2 years LOL 😆

                  #13911
                  Buccaneer
                  Participant

                    US Member

                    Thumper, just downloaded the manuals. Thanks! I’ll have to see what Scott model
                    best resembles my Firestone, but too late tonight.
                    I have numbers off all the bearings I removed with the exception of the
                    ball bearing on the prop shaft, so I can start looking for replacements……
                    but suppose I should see if I can remedy the bent L.U. housing first, lol.
                    10-4 on the grease Frank.
                    Thanks, Buccaneer

                    Prepare to be boarded!

                    #13923
                    jim-moffatt
                    Participant

                      US Member

                      Gearshift detent:

                      The detent gets stiff because the bullet at the end of the spring develops a ridge.
                      The only way I could cure this was to shorten the spring slightly on a grinding wheel.
                      Go a little at a time and test the detent action. It typically took only a 1/32" or so.

                      #13933
                      Buccaneer
                      Participant

                        US Member

                        Jim, Thanks for the tip on the detent. I’ll look it over better today.

                        Prepare to be boarded!

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