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ATF has a lot of detergents to keep your transmission clean plus a lubricant for the bushings. The highly volatile acetone will get it into the crevices. It works as well as products costing three times as much. Heat and cold uses the different expansion rates of iron and aluminum to break the bond between the two. The high pressure grease works well if you can seal off the ports. This can be difficult in four cylinder (double apposed) outboards, especially Johnsons which use a ported piston. Remove the cylinder nuts and work on the piston with the closed ports to gain access to the connecting rod screws. high pressure grease has been known to break out thin places the cylinder wall. this is less likely in cylinders with removable heads because the casting sand has more support and is less likely to shift.
If you have not yet put your turkey cooker away,now may be the time
to try your favorite recipe for deep fried V45.!
Seriously, there are a lot of different approaches for dealing with stuck
outboards, Often it is the rings are rusted to cylinder wall, sometimes the
problem lies elsewhere. Lower ends can be stuck, needle bearings can
be swelled up with rust seizing crankshaft tight. Everyone has their
favorite cure or cures for what ails a stuck outboard. One size dones
not fit every condition. I have used the grease gun method on a number of early K Model Mercurys with mixed results. It is a kill or cure approach that gives results good or bad quickly. Several of my
motors did not survive. As the saying goes…mistakes come from lack
of experience and experience comes from making mistakes.
Pressure from grease gun will burst cast iron cylinders with only
a partial stroke beyond where you should have quit.
Magic elixirs sometimes work wonders.
A cautious , patient approach, well thought out ,give a better chance of
a good outcome than just getting out the big hammer.
Louis
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