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Tiller handle and its grab bar are probably brass and should be nickel plated. There is supposed to be a leather-wrapped wooded grip on the tiller handle.
Driveshaft tube should be nickel plated as well, but I have to check that. The model B was the first salt-water model Johnson and I believe the main difference between the A and the B was the type of drive and propeller shafts used. The model “A” Johnson definitely had a nickel-plated driveshaft tube. Early models used a steel tube that was nickeled, but they switched to all brass tubes at some point in 1923.
If the four screws directly underneath the powerhead have been taken out, and your lower unit has also been taken off, then the only thing bonding the base of the crankcase to that flange is friction or corrosion or strong sealer, of a combination of the three. I’d suggest some gentle heating from a propane torch to warm things up, then find a place to nudge it with a plastic hammer or dead-blow mallet with a non-marring face and try to break it loose. Make sure your water pipes are all undone as well.
Hope this helps.
Best,
PM t21 user thanked author for this post.
This fits inside the drive shaft tube. It may be stuck from corrosion.
Try gripping the flange, not the tube, in some way and with some
twisting it should break free.
Tubs
1 user thanked author for this post.
If your serial number is somewhere between 7501 and 20,000
your motor is a 1924. If your flywheel says A-25 your motor
is a 1925 or 26. Serial number over 20,001.
Take off the prop and remove the cover on the gear case.
If your lucky you will find a brown lubricant without any
water and the gears in good condition. You want to clean out
the gear case as best you can. You will fill it with either John
Deere Corn Head Grease or Lubriplate 105 Assembly Grease
but waited till your ready to run the motor. You want to
remove the water pump and check the condition of the
pump piston. Also remove the 2 hex caps. These are check
valves. Inspect their condition. They need to be clean and
free to operate properly.
There are 3 screws holding on the rope sheave. These screws
have a thread that isn’t available today. Be careful with them
and don’t loose them. You will need to make a “Knocker to
remove the flywheel. Watch the video on how to use it.
If you don’t weld you can just jam 2 nuts together. These
usually only need the points cleaned to have the spark return.
Inspect the fuel system. Clean carb., gas tank, as necessary.
Be sure the fuel line is clear and the vent hole in the gas cap
isn’t plugged. If you have any questions, ask. Someone here
should be able to help you.
Tubs
https://youtu.be/RWgE9XiIBnk
Parts- Decals, spark plugs and spark plug wire, condensers,
are about all that is available as far as new parts. Someone
has reproduced the leather covered, wooden grip at one
time but recent contact (second hand to me) with that
individual reviled that there isn’t any available as this time.
If you can, make what you have unusable. Parts come from
other motors. There is a free classified ad section on this
website. Checking eBay, craigslist, and other internet sights
may produce a part or parts motor. There are also individual
who sell used parts.
Nothing was painted. Everything brass should be nickel
plated. Nuts, screws, bolts, prop nut, water pump, ect.,as well
as the copper fuel and water tubing.
Changing the spark plug wires.
First challenge is the remove the wire nuts.
They are easily broken and difficult to replace.
Second, you’ll find that where the wires connect to the coil is
sealed with Tar. A heat gun will soften the tar enough so that
you can remove the coil. Originally the connection is made
with springs inside glass tubes. Most people don’t notice those
parts were even in there as they get lost in the tar when removing
it. Kerosene works as well as anything to clean up the parts.
Picture shows how I connect the new wires. I don’t think too
many people replace the tar once its removed.
Tubs
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