Topic: 1932 Johnson K-50 8 hp questions – Antique Outboard Motor Club,Inc

This topic has 20 replies, 8 voices, and was last updated 7 years ago by Buccaneer.

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April 18, 2018 at 11:00 pm #9683
Buccaneer
Participant
US Member
I started on the subject motor today. It seems pretty sound.
It’s missing the cover for the carb float chamber (I can probably
make something to work on the lathe), the float needle is broken
in half, and one gas tank mount ear is broke off the tank.

Anyone have photos of this carb I can compare?
I’m wondering if the 90 deg. fitting below the needle seat
and the seat itself, is correct. It really doesn’t look like
the needle would seat at all.

When I took the magneto off I noticed it had conventional style
condensers installed, but the old original rectanglar condensers
are still mounted and wired up as well.
I tested for spark before I tore it apart, and there was none,
but the points look pretty crusty.
Would it spark at all with the condensers "doubled up" ?
Thanks!

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April 19, 2018 at 3:46 am #74302
Mumbles
Participant
Not sure about the carb but with the caps hooked up in parallel, the uF rating would be the total of the two. For example, if you wire two 0.10 caps in parallel, it would be equivalent to a single 0.20 cap in the system. If one of the original caps is shorted internally, the second one would just be going along for a ride wired in like that. Even if they were both good and within limits, the points would suffer from arcing or pitting.
April 19, 2018 at 11:11 am #74309
PM T2
Participant
Canada Member
The needle seat is above the level of that fitting. In the picture it looks like you’re attempting (or somebody else was) to use the cobbled up compression nut (if that’s what it is) as the needle seat, and that ain’t gonna work.

If the needle doesn’t go through that nut, take it off and put the needle where it should be. There’s a threaded collar on the base of the float bowl, the needle has to be above the level of those threads. If you try to use that improper nut as the seat area, I doubt the needle would be long enough to go all the way through the centre of the float.

The elbow parts might work, but no, they are not correct. Proper fuel pipe is similar to what you see on all of the antique Johnson motors, i.e. they have a fuel pipe soldered to a nickel-plated brass ferrule that is captured by an aluminum nut that threads onto the base of the fuel bowl where those male threads are.

It also looks like there’s a small barrel thing fastened onto the throttle lever, probably somebody trying to use remote throttle control on it.

Hope this helps.

Best,
PM T2

He's livin' in his own private Idaho..... I hope to go out quietly in my sleep, like my grand-dad did..... and not screaming, like the passengers in his car...
April 19, 2018 at 11:49 am #74310
squierka39
Participant
US Member
The fuel inlet has been modified, it should look the same as your later K motors Buc, and your A. A big hex nut with the fuel line soldered on. I’ll take some pics of mine when I get in my shop, got to do jury duty today. No time. Lol
April 19, 2018 at 12:28 pm #74311
Buccaneer
Participant
US Member
Thanks for the lesson in electronics. Good to know the caps
will work in parallel if needed. Not sure how I’ll wire up new caps
when the time comes. Last time on another old Johnson I
put an axial cap in the same place as the original retangular
condenser was mounted, but I had to solder on a wire to
one lead to make it long enough to hook up to the points
terminal. Then made up a couple of tin covers to hide them.
It all seemed a little "Mickey Mouse", but it worked.

quote Mumbles:

Not sure about the carb but with the caps hooked up in parallel, the uF rating would be the total of the two. For example, if you wire two 0.10 caps in parallel, it would be equivalent to a single 0.20 cap in the system. If one of the original caps is shorted internally, the second one would just be going along for a ride wired in like that. Even if they were both good and within limits, the points would suffer from arcing or pitting.

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April 19, 2018 at 12:35 pm #74312
Buccaneer
Participant
US Member
The carb was as purchased by me, and appears to have been "cobbled up"
many moons ago. So far I’m not able to get the fitting (that the needle was in)
removed, as the round brass plug affair in the inside of the carb bowl turns,
with no way to hold it.

My Condolences on Jury Duty Squire……. that’s my worst nightmare,
that I’ll get "called to duty" during Tomahawk. If so, the guy may be hung, lol.

quote PM T2:

The needle seat is above the level of that fitting. In the picture it looks like you’re attempting (or somebody else was) to use the cobbled up compression nut (if that’s what it is) as the needle seat, and that ain’t gonna work.

If the needle doesn’t go through that nut, take it off and put the needle where it should be. There’s a threaded collar on the base of the float bowl, the needle has to be above the level of those threads. If you try to use that improper nut as the seat area, I doubt the needle would be long enough to go all the way through the centre of the float.

The elbow parts might work, but no, they are not correct. Proper fuel pipe is similar to what you see on all of the antique Johnson motors, i.e. they have a fuel pipe soldered to a nickel-plated brass ferrule that is captured by an aluminum nut that threads onto the base of the fuel bowl where those male threads are.

It also looks like there’s a small barrel thing fastened onto the throttle lever, probably somebody trying to use remote throttle control on it.

Hope this helps.

Best,
PM T2

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April 19, 2018 at 2:39 pm #74322
Tubs
Participant
Your going to need the carb body as well
as the seat was where the put the fitting.

A "Boathouse Repair" is one that done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.
April 19, 2018 at 4:25 pm #74330
Buccaneer
Participant
US Member
Tubs, Whoever re-engineered the fuel line fitting on the
carb did a good job. It was soldered on "factory looking."
Unfortunately, I’m guessing the guy forgot to insert the
float needle before soldering on the new fitting.
Sounds like something I would do! 😮
Little propane bottle torch wouldn’t do anything, so
I had to get the big guns out. Luckily, the needle
seat is down in the hole away, and didn’t seem affected.
I took a fuel line off a 1940 Johnson, and it screws
onto the K-50 carb body okay, even though the threads
aren’t great. Carb is soaking in cleaner. Not sure what
I’m going to do about the broken needle brass needle yet.
It appears that an attempt was made once to solder it together.
Thanks for the photos!

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April 19, 2018 at 9:50 pm #74346
Buccaneer
Participant
US Member
Spent some time on the carb today. I think all will be well.
Got the carb and needle seat cleaned up, the broken needle
brazed back together, new cork float made, and whittled
out a new float cover. Have to get some super glue to
seal the float tomorrow.

quote Tubs:

Your going to need the carb body as well
as the seat was where the put the fitting.

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April 20, 2018 at 1:00 pm #74368
joesnuffy
Participant
Wow that’s pretty cool. Excellent work.

Joe
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