Home › Forum › Ask A Member › 1932 Johnson K-50 8 hp questions
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Buccaneer.
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April 20, 2018 at 10:36 pm #74400
I used 60s chevy condensers and mounted them in the holes the originals came out of then made aluminium plates to cover them also if replacing plug wires cut off an inch or so from coil and solder there and shrink wrap less chance of damaging the coil
Doug
how is it motors multiply when the garage lights get
turned off?April 20, 2018 at 11:09 pm #74403Worked on the magneto today. Not done, but got a good start.
Found the Johnson specs for the condensers, and they should
be .22 mfd’s.The original rectangular ones measured at .23 mfd and the
"added on" parallel wired condensers measured at .21 mfd’s,
for a whopping total of .44 mfd’s.
The points were not pitted, just full of powdery oxide.
If the carb job was buggered up the same time as the extra
condensers were added, it probably never ran again to "pit"
the points.I presume that this is the original magneto, and therefore surprised
to see that Johnson was using that P.I.T.A. little clip holding
to points on way back in 1932!Prepare to be boarded!
April 21, 2018 at 2:15 pm #74434Looking good. Yes that is the correct magneto for your motor, you can tell because it has the elbows underneath for the spark plug wires. The later plate just has a hole and a rubber grommet.
April 21, 2018 at 7:56 pm #74450Made a little more progress on the magneto, but got a "hair brained" idea
to put a capacitor inside of the original rectangular condenser case.
I was always curious what the inside of one of those style condensers
looked like anyway. Second condenser rebuild went faster, but
I wouldn’t want to do it for a living. 😉Prepare to be boarded!
April 22, 2018 at 3:14 pm #74488Would you have a P/N or a link for those caps?
April 22, 2018 at 4:00 pm #744900.2µF Film Capacitor 400V Polypropylene (PP), Metallized Radial
Digi-Key Part Number P12106-ND
Manufacturer Part Number ECW-F4204JLhttps://www.digikey.com/products/en?keywords=P12106-ND
quote Mumbles:Would you have a P/N or a link for those caps?Prepare to be boarded!
April 22, 2018 at 6:27 pm #74505I’ve always wanted to see inside those square caps too, thanks now I have. Looks like it will be a good runner. Don’t skimp on the oil, the K-50 did not have the oil line going to the top bearing like the later motors do. Even with the added line they also specified more oil in the later K’s.
April 22, 2018 at 10:30 pm #74525Squier, by the looks of all the caked on dirt, I assumed the K-50
used a lot of oil. 😆
I may get my little electric power washer out tomorrow and see
if I can blow some of the grime off.I finished up the magneto today. Not sure why one plug wire
points forward, and the other aft, but that’s the only way the
wire caps screw on. Hopefully I’ll understand when I put it all
back together!
It had rubber boots on the old plug wires. I presume it originally
had the "fork" type terminal ends??Started cleaning up the flywheel, etc.
Made some 14-24 puller bolts today for the old Johnsons. I hate
using an irreplaceable rope plate for a puller, so I got the grade 8
bolts, cuts the heads off, and threaded them for the flywheel.
Hopefully I put them away where I find them for the next job!Prepare to be boarded!
April 23, 2018 at 12:34 pm #74575Looking great so far! I always dread working on magnetos. Yours looks ready to go.
April 23, 2018 at 1:17 pm #74577I’m following this thread closely. I have an old clapped out K-50 as well as several other K- Johnsons that I have not yet really worked on. I want to get my decent KA-15 tuned up and ready for a boat ride this year. I probably have almost enough parts to build a couple "Franken-Ks" if I feel like doing that too. I have not been too deep into these yet so I’m learning quite a bit from this thread. It looks like you’re doing a great job, Buc.
-BenOldJohnnyRude on YouTube
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