green-thumbs wrote:

Fun, Fun, Fun… trying to sort out 16 square hole (1940) and the 7 slit (1941and some early Post War) Usually a few parts are missing. Usually not always the sane so if you collect several motors the picture becomes clear. If no one else is on the job I can do some basement research and take a few photos,

Clutch assembly goes together one way and fits into prop snuggly, Someties needs clean out of corrosion,

Can use sheer pin, but, a little adjustment required.,

Louis

 

 

Louis, are you saying there’s clutch disc under the rubber cogged washer
that engages the shear pin?

I was wondering if the “guts” of the prop came out, and one could use
it as a regular prop, like the KB-1A prop?
I pried on the guts a little, but the rubber is pretty friable, so I didn’t try
too hard.

green-thumbs wrote:

The rubber portion of clutch often bonds to the metal discs.        I would not try to separate them by force .                                        Other methods might work, but, I have not tried them.

The clutch is premium feature for KB-3 that KB-1 and KB-1A did not have originally, but, one that could be added later. . It is also possible to remove the clutch and use a sheer pin so by using the same parts as a KB-1 or KB-1A used.

Louis

 

 

I

Thanks Louis, I seen a slot machined across the
prop bore, down below the rubber cog a ways,
that I thought might be a shear pin groove, but it
looked to be cut square, instead of rounded like
most shear pin grooves.
I guess I won’t know unless I get the rubber “guts”
out of the prop.
I prefer the conventional shear pin set up on the
“no thrills” version.

dave-bernard wrote:

the prop shaft on some has 2 holes for shear pins. so, you can use clutch or no clutch.

I’ll try again to dig the rubber clutch works out.
The rubber has seen better days, so I might
as well go for broke! Thanks.