Home › Forum › Ask A Member › 1951 Evinrude Fleetwin 7 1/2
- This topic has 8 replies, 3 voices, and was last updated 3 years, 9 months ago by fleetwin.
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July 22, 2020 at 8:33 pm #209490
I have totally broken down the engine, hopefully took enough pictures and notes! First time.
Was careful to get rings loose – they were froze solid to piston due to sitting for so long and caked carbon, etc. Was not able to find any new replacement rings.Question – once I hone the two cylinders, what is the best oil lubricant to use around rings/pistons and the cylinder wall before replacing into cylinder?
Do you use the same lubricant then around crank, rod caps etc? (I have the lubriplate No 105 that I used for the lower gear case – but thinking that is not light enough to clear away once engine is running??)
I was able to find most gaskets – but one – Exhaust collector housing gasket (202581). What gasket material can I use to make it? I went to Napa and didn’t see what I was thinking I would need. I was expecting to find the old gray fiber looking material??
When I took apart the cylinder and crankcase assembly, there was no gasket. What type of liquid gasket do I use. (Picture show what I have). And whatever is recommended, then can I use it for all the other gaskets as well?
On the rod caps there is a notch that aligns with the crew head. Do you tighten down until they align, or rely on torque??
As always I appreciate all the directions/suggestions. I know I will have more questions as I start to put it back together.
July 22, 2020 at 10:34 pm #209500847 for the crankcase halves. OMC Gasket sealing compound for general gaskets sealing. Not sure what you mean by the screw heads (??)
July 22, 2020 at 11:18 pm #209507If you look at the picture with the rod caps showing you will see a notch in the cap that lines up exactly with each bolt. Thanks for the info on gasket sealant. What is the lubricant I need to use to reassemble internal parts so there will not be a dry start?
Thanks
July 23, 2020 at 4:40 am #209525Oh, dumb me. Those notches are where they were “staked” to lock them from loosening. To reassemble, you first need to tighten them to the specified torque, then re-stake them. Since the new position will likely be very close to the original and difficult to get a new stake, what I do is mix the screws up so they don’t go back in the same holes. Note: Do NOT mix the rod caps up!!! They must go back on the same rods they came off of, and in the same end-for-end position. You did mark them, right?
So, if in case you don’t know what does “stake” mean? It means to dent the aluminum so it bulges over into the screwdriver slot. I do that by using a hammer and blunt screwdriver to give them a whack to displace the soft aluminum.
Use plain ol’ outboard oil as assembly lube—the same stuff you put in the fuel.
July 23, 2020 at 8:27 am #209530The exhaust cover gaskets are available through marineengine.com
http://www.marineengine.com/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php?year=1958&hp=7.5&model=AD-12&manufacturer=Johnson§ion=Powerhead+GroupFinally, I am a bit concerned hearing you reusing the rings you had to more or less force off the pistons because they were stuck. I am not bothered by the fact that the rings were “used”, but am concerned that they were weakened/compromised by having to force/coerce/pry them off the pistons…
- This reply was modified 3 years, 9 months ago by fleetwin. Reason: correction
July 23, 2020 at 12:38 pm #209543Test. Locked out?
July 23, 2020 at 12:40 pm #209544No, fleetwin, the #3 picture in the original post clearly shows staked rod screws.
July 23, 2020 at 12:46 pm #209545July 23, 2020 at 8:12 pm #209650OK guys, sorry for not reading your posts thoroughly….Not familiar with the staking process, listen to Frank….
I deleted the lines in my post concerning the rod screws to avoid any confusion….- This reply was modified 3 years, 9 months ago by fleetwin. Reason: addition
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