Home Forum Ask A Member 1958 Magneto Cam

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  • #286521
    cron78
    Participant

      US Member - 2 Years

      Working intermittently on a 1958 10hp Johnson.  Watched several videos and read several forums.  Saw that the mag cam should have “top” and an arrow imprinted on the top.  Looking at the one I have there is no such imprints.  Might it be installed upside down?  Should I worry about this issue?  I will be using a timing tool when I put the magneto back on, so maybe the arrow isn’t needed.

       

      Thanks

       

      edit:  I pulled the cam off and it has no markings on either the top or the bottom and it will fit back on with either side facing up.  It had the flatter section just before the “nose” of the cam that would let the point kick open quicker than it closes the point gap.  Is this correct? Should the point open or close quicker?

       

      Thx again.

      #286525
      crosbyman
      Participant

        Canada Member - 2 Years

        just follow this fellow’s method

        http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ga1Cjymj6ms&feature=youtu.be

        if not tappered try one side  or the other  but set points per video 

         

        1958 Johnson QD-19 10 hp Outboard Motor Parts (marineengine.com)

         

         

         

        Joining AOMCI has priviledges 🙂

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        #286528
        jeff-register
        Participant

          US Member - 2 Years

          I will tell tou another way that works on any magneto: First locate your two magnets on the flywheel, Use a straight edje to mark the outside of the flywheel. Next disconnert all wires from the points & connect a wire going thru the armature plate, about 24″ long. now mark the laminations on the plate. With flywheel just set on the shaft install a small lamp & battery to the wire. As you rotate the flywheel you will feel the firdt set of laminations, there are three to each coil. It will pass the 1 & 2 laminations, then 2 & 3 with the magnets, at that point your coil has recieved the max electro-magnetic energy & the points should open firing the coil. If these events don’t happen your points cam may be upside down. Try turning it over 7 retest. It’s failproof with any magneto.

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          #286541
          fleetwin
          Participant

            US Member - 2 Years

            Working intermittently on a 1958 10hp Johnson.  Watched several videos and read several forums.  Saw that the mag cam should have “top” and an arrow imprinted on the top.  Looking at the one I have there is no such imprints.  Might it be installed upside down?  Should I worry about this issue?  I will be using a timing tool when I put the magneto back on, so maybe the arrow isn’t needed.

             

            Thanks

             

            edit:  I pulled the cam off and it has no markings on either the top or the bottom and it will fit back on with either side facing up.  It had the flatter section just before the “nose” of the cam that would let the point kick open quicker than it closes the point gap.  Is this correct? Should the point open or close quicker?

             

            Thx again.

            Usually one side of the cam has some sort of markings on it that should face upwards

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            #286560
            cron78
            Participant

              US Member - 2 Years

              One more question on the magneto for this ’58 10 horse… When I use the timing tool and adjust the points to open at the right time (begin opening as the tool aligns between the two marks on the mag plate) I see that the point gaps are quite different between the two when they get completely open.  I can’t find my feeler gauge, so I’ll have to wait to get a new one in a few days, but I can see a difference.  Shouldn’t both gaps be the same? Do I need to bend the part of the point that the wires are screwed onto a bit towards the rocker arm point on the one that opens wider to close the gap that’s too wide, or is there a better trick that I don’t know about?  When I get the right tool (feeler gauge) I’ll do it again using the multimeter and the timing tool; not just eyeballing it.

              Meanwhile, I’m moving over to change the impeller on a ’57 7.5 horse.  It’ll be the first time I remove a powerhead for an impeller change.  Wish me luck.

              Thx

              #286563
              crosbyman
              Participant

                Canada Member - 2 Years

                Do I need to bend the part of the point that the wires are screwed onto …

                 

                NO!    use the 2nd  off-set screw … just loosen the main  screw  a bit holding down the points  and use the pivoting one to adjust the gap.

                but… in fact the  gap size becomes more or less irrelevant if the points open up at  the  mid point of the two bars as in the video.

                to set them with no tools just adjust the gap for .020 att he high  point of the cam lobe.

                7.5hp  ph removal …careful with the top carbon  seal !! very easy to break if you drop it !!   see similar on a 5.5hp

                try not to damage the base gasket . if you order  a new one make certain  the pattern matches yours !! they look the same but….

                18-3001C – water pump kit for Johnson/Evinrude 5.5 hp and 7.5 hp 1956- – VintageOutboard.com

                 

                Joining AOMCI has priviledges 🙂

                #286567
                The Boat House
                Participant

                  One more question on the magneto for this ’58 10 horse… When I use the timing tool and adjust the points to open at the right time (begin opening as the tool aligns between the two marks on the mag plate) I see that the point gaps are quite different between the two when they get completely open.  I can’t find my feeler gauge, so I’ll have to wait to get a new one in a few days, but I can see a difference.  Shouldn’t both gaps be the same? Do I need to bend the part of the point that the wires are screwed onto a bit towards the rocker arm point on the one that opens wider to close the gap that’s too wide, or is there a better trick that I don’t know about?  When I get the right tool (feeler gauge) I’ll do it again using the multimeter and the timing tool; not just eyeballing it.

                  Meanwhile, I’m moving over to change the impeller on a ’57 7.5 horse.  It’ll be the first time I remove a powerhead for an impeller change.  Wish me luck.

                  Thx


                  As the flywheel magnets pass over the coil
                  lamination, the magnet field changes from
                  north to south. (or south to north depending
                  on the motor) This is the where you want
                  the points to open to get the best spark. The
                  factory gap setting will get you close if you
                  don’t have a timing tool. Point sets are far
                  from identical so the gap will be different
                  when they are set to open at the proper time.
                  Its when the points open the matters, not the
                  gap.
                  Tubs
                  .

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