Home Forum Ask A Member 1969 Johnson 40ESL69R Charging/Shifting question

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  • #179057
    todd281
    Participant

      the problem came to me this way, The system has the “solid state” type of regulator to replace the “Prestolite” older contact switching type regulator that seems can be only had from the a contact at the Smithsonian . So with that in line , when the Key is in the “on/run” position the generator is charged. It , [being basically a DC motor] is trying to turn against the flywheel rotation of the outboard. Thus using the charge in the battery. I had the engine stall at low RPMs and went to investigate what the cause was, forgetting to turn off the key. Normally “key on” with a magneto motor would only run accessories this boat has a master switch so no accessories were “on”However the draw to the generator. and time spent, was great enough to discharge the battery enough that I needed run the small kicker to get back in. Now I am wondering if there is a better solution . perhaps with that Prestolite type Regulator this would not happen? I am thinking with that, when the outboard is not turning the contacts inside the regulator, would perhaps be open therefore disconnecting the generator from the system? Hmmmm

      #179063
      frankr
      Participant

        US Member

        Oh wow—I gotta ponder on this one. I’m busy cooking dinner now. Later.

        #179065
        frankr
        Participant

          US Member

          While the pot is simmering, I’ll say this: Yes the Prestolite regulator has a relay that disconnects the generator from the battery when output is below 14 V (or whatever the spec is)

          #179067
          frankr
          Participant

            US Member

            There are some NOS Prestolite regulators on e-bay.

            #179079
            todd281
            Participant

              I was just hesitant to look and/or purchase the older style one, not knowing if it would correct the problem. But it seems in this case , the old tech beats out the newer stuff. Thanks for helping ,and all the guidance . I`ll be on the lookout for that part .

              #179080
              frankr
              Participant

                US Member

                I dunno, but it sounds like you are trying to use a “Type B” regulator. Your Johnson has a “Type A” generator.

                EDIT: Otherwise known as “internally grounded field” (B) and “externally grounded field” (A)

                • This reply was modified 4 years, 9 months ago by frankr.
                #179112
                todd281
                Participant

                  How does one tell the difference? is there a test? markings on the regulator? or just have to dig through part numbers and specs?

                  #179116
                  frankr
                  Participant

                    US Member

                    Not knowinig what you have, all I can do is explain how they control the field circuit (and thus voltage).

                    A type A generator starts producing a voltage in the armature windings as it starts to spin (remember, it retains some residual magnetism in the fields to get things started). That voltage in the armature is fed to the battery if high enough to close the cut-out relay contacts. At the same time, it is also fed to one end of the field coil windings. It passes through the field windings, and goes out the field terminal on the gen. From there, it goes to the field terminal on the regulator. The voltage regulator contacts are closed if calling for gen output, so the field circuit is grounded, completing the field circuit from armature to ground, and a current flows through the field windings. The current flowing through the field windings causes them to become electro-magnets, adding to the residual magnetism already there. The added magnetism causes more voltage to be produced in the armature, till eventually it is high enough to close the cut-out relay and go on to the battery. And so it goes till the voltage reaches it’s set limit, then the voltage regulator contacts open, interrupting the field ground and current and charging more or less stops. Actually, the contacts vibrate, causing a rapid connect/disconnect to ground.

                    OK, if you waded through all that, the important thing to absorb is the voltage regulator GROUNDS the field circuit when charging is called for (external ground).

                    Without going through the whole scenario, a type B generator is different in that the inner end of the field coil is grounded to the case instead of going to the armature.. The type B voltage regulator applies battery voltage to the field terminal on the gen to complete the circuit to it’s internal ground, increasing the field magnetism and causing a voltage to be produced in the armature and on to the battery. And so it goes.

                    Summing up, Type A regulator GROUNDS the field terminal, Type B regulator APPLIES VOLTAGE to the field terminal.

                    Got it????

                    #179117
                    frankr
                    Participant

                      US Member

                      I might as well add something to all this discussion. The OMC/Prestolite regulator looks just like a hundred car regulators. But the OMC version limits generator output to 10 Amps. I don’t know of any car charging systems that only produce 10 Amps. You might be tempted it just use a car regulator and get 30 Amps or more. Trouble is, that will burn up the generator armature.

                      #179118
                      frankr
                      Participant

                        US Member

                        One last thing, then I’ll shut up. For years, OMC put the regulator in a junction box in the boat. Then they eliminated the junction box (good riddance) and put the regulator under the motor hood and changed the part number. Supposedly, the under-hood version is sealed against fuel vapors which might be ignited by the vibrating contacts inside. Remember, it is right under the carburetor. Word from here is use the correct part number for under-hood mounting.

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