Topic: 33 hp Scott Lower Unit questions – Antique Outboard Motor Club,Inc

This topic has 9 replies, 3 voices, and was last updated 9 years, 7 months ago by RICHARD A. WHITE.

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January 13, 2016 at 12:24 am #3373
RICHARD A. WHITE
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Going thru this lower unit pulled the gear off the prop shaft, but now trying to get the prop shaft out of the housing. I have tried to drive it out with no success. I do see a snap ring in there, but NOT gonna get a pair of pliers in the little gap, as the bearing, one of two is still in the housing. Also when I went to pull the drive shaft bearings and look up the specs, they are only rated for 4,000 rpm. But motor is rated for 4200 rpm, is this a concern? Bearing prices range from $10- $75 for the Torrington B1710 Does price matter?

Parts drawings I have are almost useless for my old eyes as I can’t zoom them out with serious distortion to the point of it being nothing more than a blurr.

Would love some insight, as I am confident there is a way, just not seeing it right now. I want the bearings replaced. See photo below

Thanks

Richard

http://www.richardsoutboardtools.com
classicomctools@gmail.com
January 13, 2016 at 12:33 am #30045
jeff-register
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Richard,
Never been inside one but can’t you heat up the aluminum housing & it will come out? Reminds me of Mercury lowers too.
January 13, 2016 at 1:32 am #30047
frankr
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Book sez you can now push the shaft rearward (toward prop end). It will push the seal out with it. My guess is then you can access the ball bearing to knock it out. But not speaking from experience here. Yes, heating the aluminum should make the bearing almost fall out.

I must say, I’ve never spec’d the bearings. But that’s interesting. I’ve worked on more than a few of those motors back in the day and have little or no experience with that gearcase. They must be OK.
January 13, 2016 at 1:38 am #30049
RICHARD A. WHITE
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The snap ring prevents the shaft from going out the direction of the prop. And the forward bearing prevents access to the snap ring..BUT I will try heat to see if that will allow the forward bearing to fall out, that will allow access to the snap ring… I hope…LOL thanks

So you think the 4k rpm bearing will be ok?

http://www.richardsoutboardtools.com
classicomctools@gmail.com
January 13, 2016 at 1:51 am #30051
RICHARD A. WHITE
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Well heck, add a bit of heat, one light tap on the wooden bench and the dang bearing fell out…LOL NOW I can get to the snap ring…

Thanks

Unit had some water intrusion so bearing will get replaced…

http://www.richardsoutboardtools.com
classicomctools@gmail.com
January 13, 2016 at 3:25 pm #30066
jeff-register
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Richard,
I just finished getting the powerhead off the outboard & needed heat to get almost everything off. If you need just a little heat try a heat gun. My thumb screws were rusted on & I would of bent them if I didn’t use heat to get them off. You guessed it too. It is a Mercury that had sat outside without any covers except a baby seat. To get the powerhead off I hung it in the air & used a 2×4 across the lower shroud to get it to move. I was lucky the gears came off. It turned over nice & plugs looked good & even carbon on them. I know a guy who has many Scott gaskets if you need any.
January 13, 2016 at 4:03 pm #30067
RICHARD A. WHITE
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I have a complete power head gasket set .. Thanks goes to roger Dykehouse for that needle in a haystack find…I also have new points and it rolls over so once the lower is done should be able to fire it up… Even went to the expense of buying a test wheel for it!!

http://www.richardsoutboardtools.com
classicomctools@gmail.com
January 14, 2016 at 1:14 am #30082
RICHARD A. WHITE
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And now for the other end… See photo below:

Red arrows point to what I believe is the outer edge of the seal. This must be removed to get the other bearing out, but I have tried to drive it out, and also used heat, It don’t move. I will have access to a nice arbor press come Monday. And I DO NOT want to ruin that seal… Should I wait till then to see if I can press it out?

http://www.richardsoutboardtools.com
classicomctools@gmail.com
January 14, 2016 at 4:13 am #30088
jeff-register
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Richard,
do the same thing here too. secure the carrier & then cut the seal lip off, Next open the jaws till it is tight & it will pop off. The seal lips will get in the way until you cut them off a slot to grab metal & it pops off. Easier too. May I ask for a photo too please. Use a heat gun not a torch too. 😎
January 14, 2016 at 12:18 pm #30093
RICHARD A. WHITE
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But if I cut the seal lip off, than I have no seal…. and who knows if it can be replaced….

http://www.richardsoutboardtools.com
classicomctools@gmail.com
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