Topic: ’54 Fleetwin – wont run on low speed – Page 4

This topic has 44 replies, 15 voices, and was last updated 3 years, 10 months ago by labrador-guy.

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June 25, 2020 at 10:36 am #206659
The Boat House
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June 25, 2020 at 12:28 pm #206665
David Bartlett
Participant
US Member - 2 Years
burnt-clutch wrote:

So the whole story is that the motor is new to me, and I started to overhaul it a few months ago. Before I started work on it I did a compression test which gave me readings of 70 / 80. I removed the cylinder head and planed it and the power head (at the top of the cylinders) before installing the new head gasket. I didn’t notice if the old head gas was burned but I replaced it for good measure. I saw some scoring at the top of the cylinders but noting else.The welch plug was never missing, I just took it out thinking that the lead shot that I mentioned at the beginning of the thread was missing. The motor does idle better than when I started this thread, – I think that I accidentally installed the high and low speed needles in the wrong places when I originally put the carb back together. I’ll do another compression test this weekend and see if the numbers are improved, and I’ll drain the lower unit oil and see if there is any water in it. So is the friction plate thingee the item that is circled in this picture? Does anyone have a link to the parts list for a ’54 Fleetwin, or is that year identical to a ’57?
-Karl

Friction block and spring will be the same for other years.

David Bartlett
Pine Tree Boating Club Chapter

"I don't fully understand everything I know!"
June 25, 2020 at 1:24 pm #206668
burnt-clutch
Participant
Ok, I’ll check for that part (#0303282) this weekend when I am checking everything else out.
-Karl
June 25, 2020 at 1:33 pm #206669
David Bartlett
Participant
US Member - 2 Years
burnt-clutch wrote:

Ok, I’ll check for that part (#0303282) this weekend when I am checking everything else out.
-Karl

Take the grip/handle off first as the block may be stuck inside the handle and it may actually be missing only the spring(Part #301656)

David Bartlett
Pine Tree Boating Club Chapter

"I don't fully understand everything I know!"
- This reply was modified 3 years, 10 months ago by David Bartlett.
June 25, 2020 at 7:50 pm #206703
fleetwin
Participant
US Member - 2 Years
Yes, the circled items in your diagram are the friction block and spring, should be the same for all years.. David makes a great point, the friction block is oftentimes stuck up inside the twist grip handle…You may need a long pick to pry it out….Usually the old lube has dried and the friction block is kinda glued inside the handle… Be very careful reinstalling that twist grip retainer screw, those love to strip and are an odd size thread….
OK, so you did not have the powerhead apart, just the head off, and noticed some scoring, this is probably causing the uneven readings…If you take the head off again, go ahead and scuff up those cylinder walls with some fine emery/crocus cloth…Helps take the glaze off and might help the compression a bit…Yeah, I know, pretty crude method indeed, but we are not dealing with any delicate/precise machinery here…Just be sure to remove any dust/particles with carb cleaner spray, then re oil the cylinders generously….I don’t recommend pulling this powerhead apart and “rebuilding” it.
Let us know how the gear lube looks. Try rotating the flywheel with the plugs out/recoil off to see the if the magnets are dragging on the coils causing the mag plate to retard on its own….
Once it is back together, try to post a video of it running…
June 25, 2020 at 8:56 pm #206722
mercuryman
Participant
The donut gasket # 70 must fit tight you can tell when you install the bottom bowl on carb. . If not tight you will suck in extra fuel.
June 27, 2020 at 6:59 pm #206869
burnt-clutch
Participant
Ok, I did another compression test and the readings were still 60/70. I took the tiller handle off and there is no friction block that I can see. I dropped the lower unit and took it apart and here is the shock absorber. I dont know what to look for regarding abnormal wear, so I took these pictures. Can I re-use this shock absorber, or do I need a new one? Does anyone have a friction block to sell? I’ll order a new head gasket tomorrow and start the rebuild when I get it.
-Karl
June 27, 2020 at 8:24 pm #206883
aquasonic
Participant
US Member
Looking at the pinion shock absorber pictures, there is a slightly lighter color band just under the collar towards the top. The top may also be slightly discolored, but it’s hard to tell.

Get a good square measurement of the overall length.The correct length should be very close to 6 11/16″.
June 27, 2020 at 10:00 pm #206886
burnt-clutch
Participant
Per my Harbor freight tape measure the shock absorber measures 6 & 13/16. Should a normal wear and tear shaft be discolored like mine?
-Karl
June 28, 2020 at 7:40 am #206897
aquasonic
Participant
US Member
With an overall length of 6 13/16″ it looks like your shock is expanded or broken. Another thing that happens in this situation, is that the top of the expanded shock mashes against the bottom of the bearing carrier/upper seal housing. The bronze bushing will be flanged from the rotation and friction/heat.

With a good cleaning inside the shock, and the help of a high intensity flashlight, sometimes you can actually see a break in the internal spring. In some cases, the spring is just expanded, but not broken, and can be pressed back to 6 11/16″. Broken shocks can be pressed and welded, but I’ll leave it up to others to explain that.

It is possible that your idling issue never was a carburetor problem, and was a shock problem all along.
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