Home Forum Ask A Member 67 33HP Evinrude running very hot

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  • #278403
    bob-d
    Participant

      US Member

      A little back history. Motor started out as a 1964 28 . I replaced the block with a 67 33HP .

      It’s a newly machined block with .020 pistons, NOS crank, all new bearings, seals etc. it’s still in the break in period. No binding, good compression.The case was hot tanked after the machine work at Jay’s Block Shop in Doyle Tennessee. He did great work, highly recommended.

      After a ride the other night noticed the water coming out (good flow, new impeller) of the discharge was steaming. The block very hot, cylinder head and exhaust cover not bad, and lower unit under block …..scorching. The last time I had this problem (10HP 58 Johnson) with the lower unit cooking Fleetwin told me to pull the head, and check all of the circulation passages, in which I found that one of them under the head was totally clogged with the residual carbon of the old days of straight 30W oil.

      Here lies the problem, I pulled the head off the motor expecting to see a clogged bleed hole, and could not find any bleed holes that would keep the exhaust gas at a manageable temperature level. I also looked at my old 28HP, and no bleed holes either. I also checked the impeller looking for a broken vane which could have gotten sucked up into the water tube ..and nothing.

      Does anyone have any experience with this series of motors to possibly point in in the right direction?

      #278406
      fleetwin
      Participant

        US Member

        OK, are these pictures of your current powerhead now?  Or are these pictures of your original powerhead?  You mention that you have good water flow but it is hot.  You also mentioned that you pulled off your cylinder head on your freshly rebuilt powerhead, do I have it right?  Well, trying to find that bleed hole by probing around inside those cooling passages seems near impossible.  A few thoughts.  You mention that the cylinder head and exhaust cover temp seemed “OK”, but the “block was very hot….”.   What part of the block is “very hot”?  Your comment about the exhaust hsg being scorching hot leads me back to our hunch about a bleed hole being plugged up that would normally cool that area of the exhaust hsg.  The question is just where the bleed hole should be located, which I am not sure about.  Your picture of the original powerhead shows that little bleed hole that leads into that rear passage on the exhaust housing.  I’m guessing the cooling water is sprayed out into the upper exhaust hsg through this cavity.  Once again “I’m guessing” is the operative word(s) here.  Needless to say, your powerhead is installed on the exhaust hsg now, so we have nothing to look at.

        You have the cylinder head off now, so examine the gasket closely, look for any signs of leakage.  Look closely at the head and block as well, perhaps there is some imperfection in the castings creating a slight leak.  Be sure to replace the head gasket, don’t reuse the current one.    But again, my hunch is that this is an issue of that upper exhaust hsg not getting the cooling water it needs.

        Frank, are you reading this?  Your thoughts please.

        #278407
        fleetwin
        Participant

          US Member

          The only other idea I can come up with is that there may have been a change to the way the upper exhaust hsg was cooled between 1964 and 1967, and by swapping the powerheads, you may have caused an issue.  Again, just an idea, with no actual knowledge to back it up….  Anything is possible though.  Just please don’t rip that powerhead to shreds, looking for issues that aren’t there.  We may end up having to pull the powerhead back off the exhaust hsg though…

          #278409
          bob-d
          Participant

            US Member

            Don, these are the pictures of the “new” 33 HP head. It’s totally apart. No turning back now! Spent an hour with a high powered flashlight probing, and looking under the head for a bleed hole…..nothing. Also checked the mating surface on the lower unit, no clues there either.
            Looked for a blown head gasket as well. No luck on that idea.
            In answer to your question, the block was hot in the section under flywheel. Didn’t have a way to measure to see if it was going over the factories recommended 163°. Since I’m on vacation I don’t have all of my tools with me.
            Motor turns smoothly. New piston seating very well, no scoring. Shot all water passages with compressed air, on the head and block, they were all clear. Water tube from impeller to head was clear.
            Don the question of head compatibility was my first concern when I  was thinking about picking up the 33HP to replace the 28HP powerhead. The only thing I checked was the fact that they used the same part number for the powerhead to lower unit gasket, so I thought I would be good to go?
            Although I was dialing in the carb on the motor, and not paying that much attention to the water discharge other than it was flowing ,I’m sure that the hot problem developed after about 3 hours of run time. Even when I ran in the barrel when I started it for the first time after the rebuild I don’t remember it being that hot.
            I guess I’ll check the water pickup to water pump circuit next. Will also check the impeller to see if it’s spun on its base. Doubt it, it’s new but don’t remember if it’s a OMC or Chinese knockoff?
            Keep the questions coming.
            Thanks again,
            Bob D

            #278410
            fleetwin
            Participant

              US Member

              OK, well being hot under the flywheel probably doesn’t mean much, there is no water cooling that area anyway.  So, from what you have said, it doesn’t really seem like the engine/block is overheating.  How far apart did you take that powerhead down to??  Sure hope you didn’t split the crankcase halves or anything like that.  I am assuming that the two powerheads look identical underneath, and that that little bleed hole in the back is present on both powerheads.  Is the powerhead currently off the exhaust housing?  If so, we need to look closer at that cavity where the powerhead sprays water into.  Perhaps manually fill that cavity with water to see where it is directed to/comes out.  Seems like it should have some weep hole(s) directing the water back into the upper portion of the exhaust housing to help cool that area.  I wish I had a similar exhaust hsg around but do not, sorry.  I am asssssuming that you have probed that bleed hole on the new powerhead and it is clear up into the cylinder water jacket.

              I will PM Frank, his input would be helpful here.   D

              #278412
              bob-d
              Participant

                US Member

                Thanks Don, I really appreciate all your help.
                Powerhead has the exhaust cover off and the cylinder head off. Didn’t spit the case, as the crank and rods rotate very smoothly.  Blocks look identical with the small bleed hole under the exhaust housing cover present and open.
                Will try to hook up a water source to see what the actual flow looks like.   Bob D

                #278413
                bob-d
                Participant

                  US Member

                  Ok did a few water tests.
                  In picture #one the bleed hole under the exhaust cover drains properly into the water jacket around the cylinders. From there it’s flows out the from the cylinder water jacket (bleed hole in picture two) into the water discharge. Nothing clogged everything working as it should. Still not finding any way for the water to cool the exhaust.

                  Bob D

                  #278421
                  frankr
                  Participant

                    US MEMBER PAY BY CHECK

                    OK, at fleetwin’s request, I’ll jump in and look.  Seriously, I think y’all might be barking up the wrong tree.  The water passages in those motors are big enough to throw a screaming cat through.  Original post says it was steaming out the water discharge, I suggest you revisit the water pump, looking for exhaust leaks into the pump.  And of course the pump housing.

                    Posting a picture of a problem that I’ve seen.

                     

                    35hp-Cracked-Gearcase

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                    #278424
                    frankr
                    Participant

                      US MEMBER PAY BY CHECK

                      The exhaust housings on those motors do get pretty hot.  Ok maybe not this hot.  From a junked motor.  Just sayin’

                       

                      hot-spot

                      .

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                      #278435
                      jeff-register
                      Participant

                        US Member

                        These guys have much more experience than me. I just wanted to know did you use a drill motor on the driveshaft to see if you were pumping water? Also gettig the block halves vatted there is a chance a chunk of something has lodged blocking waterflow. I had a hard time with a Mercury 5 hp motor getting good water flow. Had it appart & shoved everything that would fit in every water port & around the cylinder water jacket before it would run at normal temps. It wasn’t vatted either, just sitting for who knows long & given up by others. Only other solution I could suggest is getting tubing that fits the water ports & trying to force water thru the passages & see if it flows out & where. Good luck, sounds  like you put time into it. I cheated & had a light sourse from surgery & a fiber optic cable very small & I could light up the bottom og the water jackets where the water ports were. I used plastic optical cable from a robotic assembly line.  I needed light way down inside a leg on another project & had some time on my hands.  Good luck!!

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