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September 18, 2020 at 7:10 am #216732
I have an extremely clean, almost new-looking Scott 7.5 Bailer. I’ve never tried to start it but it is coming up on the list of service. Is there anything I really need to do before I start messing with it? I have a tank and hose and the bailer puck and hose. Can the bailer be turned off or is it constantly running with the motor whether the puck is connected or not? I dont want to burn up an impeller and I want to at least get it started before going all the way to the lake. Should I submerge the bail puck in water while starting/tuning? By the looks of the motor, I have no doubt it is going to be a good runner. I enjoy my 52′ Firestone 7.5 so I figure this one will be pretty fun too. Thanks for any tips on these particular motors.
September 18, 2020 at 7:53 am #216734What year / model do you have? There were different designs for the 7.5 B-O-M. Early ones had a curved leg with the pumps up high. Later ones had a straight leg with the pumps down low. And then there were the low profile motors that I avoid like… well… Covid.
IIRC, in all cases the cooling pump had a small bleeder hole in it that led to the bailer impeller to keep the bailer wet during use. But you should probably keep the inlet capped with the rubber cap when not in use. You don’t have to submerge the bailer when starting.
Most Scotts from the ’50’s used WICO ignition. The condensers, if they have the fiber insulator, are notorious for leakage current. At a minimum, test them.
T
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September 18, 2020 at 8:17 am #216737I’m assuming its a 54′ The serial starts 3345, not sure what lower it is, it looks curved to me but i’m not 100%
September 18, 2020 at 9:40 am #216742That is the old notorious high-mount pump. Make sure it is as deep in the water as practical before starting to reduce the time it runs before wetting the pump. Better yet run some water from a hose into the bailer inlet to wet the pump, but who does that?
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September 18, 2020 at 9:50 am #216745now we’re talking! I made a special fitting for my garden hose to blast water into small spaces, might be a worthy use. As long as I can get it started, i’m fine with heading to the lake to tune it. I just hate getting out there and having a no-start situation. Nothing is more frustrating in this hobby than that…
September 18, 2020 at 9:56 am #216746Next question, racing prop? yes or yes?
September 21, 2020 at 3:18 pm #217006Had a no-start day with the Scott yesterday. I cleaned the points through the exam hole in the flywheel and took the carb down and cleaned it real good. Couple of hoses needed replaced but inside the cowls looked clean as a whistle. No signs of overheating or abuse. Even had 2 brand new Champions in the spare holders, all the cotter pins and shear pins still in place as well. Next I’ll pull the flywheel and check through the ignition really good, I;m thinking no spark as I had good fuel flow. It seems like this particular model has a lot of really good looking survivors out there. I probably see more of these with great original paint than almost any other motor. Must have used some good paint on these things!
September 21, 2020 at 4:17 pm #217009If I had to guess, I’d start with condensers. I’ve never found a WICO brass one with the screw on top and the fiber insulator to pass any leakage test.
Tom
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September 21, 2020 at 4:35 pm #217010Thanks Tom, I will yank those post-haste. Coils look immaculate, no cracking or shrinkage whatsoever but I know thats no guarantee…I;m still putting a race prop on it whether it starts or not. If it’s going to be a paperweight, its going to be a cool looking one.
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