Home › Forum › Ask A Member › 80 merc 1984 dies out after 1/2 throttle
- This topic has 24 replies, 8 voices, and was last updated 9 years, 8 months ago by
jerry-ahrens.
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May 28, 2016 at 5:15 pm #37262
on the first merc 1350’s the pin in the motor end of the fuel connecter was made to short. it would run fine till you hit full throttle then after about 2 min it would die. cut back on the throttle and it would pickup and be fine . replace the pin with a older and longer one cured the problem, why do I bring this up? there may be a restriction in the fuel lines that shows op t high speed breakdown of the interior of lines etc. just a thought.
May 28, 2016 at 10:03 pm #37271Betty Ann,
You could be so right! Had a high pressure line in hydraulics fail internally. It was littering the inside of the control spools causing sticking resulting in no movement of the function. Cleaned out the valve body & the bad stuff looked & felt like salt! All it took to stop it.
Betty, When are you going to drop by & see us?May 29, 2016 at 4:22 am #37289Frank,
Look in the 1965 & prior service manual under powerheads page 39 top right shows the check valves & hoses required for the suck & blow system keeping the reed blocks clean of unburned fuel. Need to find more dataMay 29, 2016 at 8:43 am #37291Jeff, this is a 1984 motor. It has its own little crank case drain issues, like the little plastic orifices in the by-pass passages that melt out. However, that usually causes a rotten idle. (More rotten than their usual idle, I might add.)
Long live American manufacturing!
May 29, 2016 at 10:45 am #37295With regards to a good quality fuel line, I would suggest going with a Quicksilver. Don’t go out and buy a new old stock hose with the red print….. buy a new one with the blue print on the hose. Some dealers will sell it bulk by the foot, or you can buy it pre made with connectors. A word of advice, if you must install a connector to the new style line, I use a cup of very hot water [from the microwave] with the end of the hose inserted in the hot water first. This softens the hose so it will easily slide on. Otherwise you risk damaging the inner skin or barrier liner. This is the problem with the cheaper fuel line assemblies… the inner barrier callapses thus creating a fuel restriction.
May 29, 2016 at 4:54 pm #37315Jerry,
I was impressed with the last hose I used. Very thin wall but tough enough for the job. I did the same thing almost using a hot plate for hot oil. The hose was from an OMC dealer but he sold Honda outboard kickers too. The hose has been on my Merc 200 only it was the 63 manual shift motor if I remember correctly. Bought it blown up & put a 1960 22hp auto trans powerhead. New rod, crank, top & bottom bearings, pump & carb kit too. I never had any problems with it but on a 12′ boat full throttle alone it was out of control. Got off the hose subject, sorry!!
Best,
JeffMay 29, 2016 at 8:29 pm #37320I cannot believe anyone has come up with a simple explanation on what else could be the issue. How about taking the carburetor off and clean it. Maybe the high speed jet is plugged or restricted? It does not take any fuel to run on a flushette but out on the water it will take all the carb can give it.
May 29, 2016 at 8:31 pm #37321And how about the high speed charging coil acting up when approaching faster speeds? Test the ignition system to see if there is a faulty stator charging coil.
May 30, 2016 at 4:32 pm #37375quote rickrodt:And how about the high speed charging coil acting up when approaching faster speeds? Test the ignition system to see if there is a faulty stator charging coil.You may want to note that I did mention that, in passing, as something to look at down the troubleshooting road. However, another gas tank and line is a lot more simple than either a carb job or a high speed stator. When ever possible, you start troubleshooting at the beginning, not the end. At least that’s the way I do it….Anyway, I haven’t heard whether the simple thing worked yet, so that’s where I’m leaving it. If this guy wants to pull a DVA out of his pocket and start with the stator or switch box, more power to him.
Long live American manufacturing!
May 30, 2016 at 6:06 pm #37382Guys,
I know the guy, he is my friend too. He was running the boat alone but I agree. Did he try the chokes while dying out. I never thought of the stuff under the flywheel. That can be checked with a ohm meter for open or shorted windings or perhaps a bad connection where they plug in. I bought some tools for releasing the connections out from the nylon housing. Many times the pin breaks the stop inside the connector & the pin moves back & makes no connection. I always look at every connection but I’m a sparky nut & enjoy that sort of thing. If he sees any tape investigate how the repair was made. I have seen some very lousy electrical connections made on outboards or bikes. Seen worse in building electrical. All kinds of tests can be made with a simple volt/ohm meter. With a shunt the plug or coil voltage can be checked too. I still think it’s fuel related with the scavage suck & blow lines & check valves but it’s just me. Time will tell with all the great suggestions! 😉 -
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