Home Forum Ask A Member 80’s/90’s 50hp opinions?

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  • #27575
    pappy
    Participant

      US Member - 2 Years

      That will probably work, with a standard prop in a barrel. The key is to run the engine at the height it will be on the boat (for back pressure) and nothing less. Simulate that height and idle the engine in gear. The engine will let you know if it is a good one or not. A well sealed engine will do this. I don’t know what you are trying to accomplish by running the Hell out of it for 5-7 minutes in a barrel.

      #27578
      johnyrude200
      Participant

        My line of thinking was based on expansion of metal. If it is run in cold water (which it is here in the northeast at this point…say 40° barrel water outdoors), it is going to take a lot more than just idle speed in forward gear to get the thermostat to open. So rev it up in a test barrel to 5,000RPM, hold that steady for 5-7 minutes, and that thermostat is going to open/cylinders are running at a temperature between 135-155°.

        Then you throttle back to idle and evaluate based on your recommendations.

        If I just turn the motor on and run at idle in gear, wouldn’t everything still be cold (in terms of metal expansion) and not give an accurate assessment?

        I will say though, that my 2014 30hp Etec took about 30 minutes at idle in neutral to get up to temp a week ago, when I went to flush it with fresh water after the last day of the season running it in brackish/salt water on the charles river (boston). Easy to observe when the thermostat opens on those motors because the bottom telltale starts spitting water and there is plenty of steam that starts to exit the overboard water indicator/2nd telltale. I ran the motor for about 45 minutes because I wanted to see the thermostat open and get a full flush of fresh for at least 8-10 minutes to minimize salt effects (along with getting some fuel with stabil through the fuel system…this was the final run of the year and I was winterizing it too).

        Basically they are like the older motors, but things are separated out a little bit more. My ’78 35hp has no steam coming out of it until 2-3 mins into run time, unless I throw it in gear and drop the hammer to about 3/4 throttle. Then 90 seconds in I get steam. I try to avoid going up to near-max RPMs on all my motors (depending on time of year/ambient temperatures) until I know all the internals have had time to expand/adequately warm up. Same thing I do to my personal vehicles (generally GMC’s/Chevy’s).

        #27580
        pappy
        Participant

          US Member - 2 Years

          Well…..you have now successfully hijacked your own thread.
          I replied on how to give you a quick and simple test to determine the internal condition of a 2-cyl. OMC looper.
          You have now changed it into how to open a thermostat in cold water.
          FYI – the thermostat in that engine runs inside a pressure relief valve.
          Your theory on how to open it at WOT just went cold ! PUN intended.

          #27581
          johnyrude200
          Participant

            LOL! More learning lessons for me 🙂

            You know, I’ve heard a few people talk about pressure relief thermostats, but until just the last couple of months, have only been working on small motors and nothing much newer above 25hp than 1993.

            I did hold a couple of ‘newer’ thermostats in my hand over the summer, and I admit it, I was itching my head wondering how the heck those things worked. And to re-hijack this thread, how does that pressure relief thermostat work? Based on water flow pressure?

            #27585
            dan-in-tn
            Participant

              US Member

              It depends on the engine or even the year model of the engine. In this case (1988 E50BELCCS). I had to go look at the block to remember what type cooling system it had for sure. You can always go look for the parts of the cooling system to tell. This engine has a thermostat, but also a poppet valve with a blowoff spring. When water pressure from the water pump gets high enough (RPMs, throttle) them the poppet valve blows off allowing more water through the block. I think that is what Pappy was referring to by revving the engine to warm it up. The motor would actually warm up quicker at idle while the thermostat was closed (assuming it is working). Once it opens or you cause the blowoff poppet to open the motor will receive maximum water flow. Now it will be generating maximum heat at WOT, but no where else.
              Most older OMC engines (not classics or antiques) used blowoff type cooling systems. I believe OMC referred to it as thermostat and pressure controlled cooling. That changed in 1985 somewhat with a different strategy. Different subject for a different time.
              Just reading about Dynautic design the other night on 1959 OMC engines. I had no idea what that made up word was. Looked it up and that was the "Marketing" buzz word for first thermostatically controlled cooling. Big deal at the time about better idling, less spark plug fouling, etc.

              Dan in TN

              #27598
              johnyrude200
              Participant

                All sounds good. I suspected water pressure was what influence operation by the name, but again, always nice to hear it from folks who have/are living it.

                I appreciate the info, insight, and assessment tools. As time moves on Ill continue to develop my knowledge base for these older motors, so the contributions of folks here are keeping these things alive for others to enjoy.

                #27599
                johnyrude200
                Participant

                  And….not to go on and on…but which of this family of motors have generally compatible parts (i.e. powerheads, gearcases)? Looks like 40, 45, 48, 50hp are all sharing the same cylinder/crankcase P/N. 45hp has a slightly different number (as in, 1 digit), but I am guessing that is due to a color change or something minor. 55hp is something different.

                  #27604
                  fleetwin
                  Participant

                    US Member - 2 Years

                    The 45/55s are generally the commercial models, and may have the coveted larger gearcase. There are so many tiny differences in the powerheads, I hesitate to talk about "compatibility". Generally, the recreational models: 40/48/50hp parts are more plentiful.

                    #27605
                    johnyrude200
                    Participant

                      I’ll keep my eye open for a 45/55hp dead motor to get my hands on one of those gearcases. They are just a swap out with the 40/48/50’s?

                      Is the 55hp a different motor? Cylinder/crankcase showed different part number when I was looking things up on M.E.

                      #27610
                      fleetwin
                      Participant

                        US Member - 2 Years

                        You can’t put the larger gearcase on the 40/50hp exhaust housing. The 55hp is not a different powerhead, just some minor port differences. The 45/55hp engines will be tough to find used, not many sold, and probably worn out if they were actually used commercially.
                        In other words, if the 50hp is in good shape, and priced reasonably, buy it! Don’t wait for the elusive commercial model to show up. You could always resell the 50hp if you find a 45/55hp at a later date. Keep in mind that many of those commercial engines are recoil start, so there would be a big expense converting them to remote electric.

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