Home › Forum › Ask A Member › 89 Johnson 14spl M#VJ14RCEC
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Michael.
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February 19, 2020 at 11:20 am #195350
Looking at the video, I’m not so sure you even have a water problem. It isn’t deep enough in the water bucket. Not to say it isn’t a good idea to replace the impeller “just because” maintenance.
February 19, 2020 at 12:29 pm #195364I do want to inspect the impeller but the indicator should be pushing some water. The water level was higher before I shot the video. I just assumed there is a misalignment with the tubing inside. That’s a common issue That results from not doing many water pumps and I figured it was worth the job to correct and inspect. Thanks for the information frank you’ve been real helpful. Just found a second nut that fits the stud and hopefully with a little love it comes out.
February 19, 2020 at 8:52 pm #195433The water pump for this motor fits 25 HP motor 1979-1997 some standard and work models.
February 20, 2020 at 9:53 am #195448Looking at the video, I’m not so sure you even have a water problem. It isn’t deep enough in the water bucket. Not to say it isn’t a good idea to replace the impeller “just because” maintenance.
I’m with Frank here…Looks like water is spraying from the exhaust. Perhaps the overboard indicator is just plugged up, which is very common. I would try blowing back through the overboard nipple with compressed air, or perhaps remove the plastic nipple. Have you run it long enough to see if it is actually overheating? In any event, this thing is a conglomeration of parts dating back the 60s. A pretty rare engine here in the states, I’m not sure the manual you ordered will be very helpful unless it is the actual factory manual.
In any event, I’m thinking that the rear stud is slightly corroded in place also. You might try threading the nut back on flush to the top of the stud. Then add some sort of metal shim small enough to fit between the stud and exhaust housing that will allow a crow bar to fit in between….Then gently work the crowbar, you may need some heat to help this process. Don’t force it too much to avoid damage to the housings and stud.
I’m surprised this larger gearcase uses the tricky shift rod connector that is hidden just inside the gearcase, only visible when you pry the gearcase down an inch of so.February 20, 2020 at 11:09 am #195457Thanks fleettwinn for verifying. I was silent yesterday because I had no success. Been sprayed down for two days now. Yesterday got a set of nuts and double nutted the stud. Used regular steel nuts. Well then the nuts stripped. She ain’t moving. Also got a brass lump hammer. While trying to back out the stud with some tapping. Nothing. Last night I built up a dam around the stud with duct seal and filled it with kroil. I’ll get back on it this afternoon. Hopefully the deep soak helps. In reference to the indicator being plugged. That occurred To me after I ventured into this realm. That bucket was filled with salt away and water. Don’t know if that would help. It’s a distinct possibility but now I can’t leave this stud situation alone. Gotta get it out and replace it with some never seize added. Also I gotta inspect and make it all right. I’m being gentle now because I am trying to preserve the stud and lower unit paint. Another day of this and I’m gonna break out the torch and vice grips probably. Already have reverse drill bits ordered etc etc. I’m planning on running the balls off of this with my 6yo and 3 yo this summer. It’s gotta be right.
February 20, 2020 at 11:21 am #195462Salt Away??? Does that imply that motor was used in salt water? Well there ya go. That’s why the stud is solidly corroded in place.
February 20, 2020 at 12:04 pm #195463Oh yeah. I forget that many boaters are in fresh water. Yeah south shore Long Island here. Motor came from Connecticut. Certainly that’s where the corrosion is from. Also the dissimilar metals. Oddly enough this motor never had a zinc on it. The paint is still intact. Clearly this motor sat in a garage until it was needed once or twice a year. Everything else is in excellent shape with very minimal rust. Salt away is a product I heard about a few years ago. Allegedly it washes away remnants of salt on surfaces. A lot of ppl use it to flush outboards on the regular. I do it for winterization minimally, usually followed by an antifreeze mix. The video I posted was dual purpose.
1. test the motor and see if there is anything I need to fix
2. Was to winterize it if it did run.
Both goals were hit. Now it’s just remaking some fuel line connections, drain replace Lower gear oil. Which BTW was fresh. From everything I’ve seen this motor was tuned fully before I bought it. Plugs are brand new etc etc. just this once nagging issue. Would it be good practice to replace this stud with a SS bolt? Also moving forward any advice when heating this thing up with a torch? More importantly what NOT to do? I’m thinking do the casing and smack the stud downward. Or should I go for the lower unit and use a vice grip?The winter has been mild here in the NE. It’s looking like I need to be ready to run by April. Maybe mid March on a couple warm days.
February 20, 2020 at 1:01 pm #195464If you reuse the stud It will be fine. just clean and grease will not freeze again. at least for me.
February 20, 2020 at 3:15 pm #195478Well, there will be no further problems if the stud is coated liberally with grease/gasket sealer prior to reassembly…Be sure to get inside that hole and clean out the salt from there as well….South shore of Long Island, my old territory…Wonder where that engine came from, perhaps one of he bigger dealers bought out some stale inventory from OMC. In any event, the engine must not have many hours to look that nice after being used in salt water….
Like I said, the best approach will be to add some sort of metal shim between the top of the stud and the gearcase housing, with a crow bar wedged in between. At this point, probably best to use some heat, even though the paint will get messed up a bit. Have an assistant pry down on the stud while you are applying heat to the exhaust housing where the stud passes through. Salt is pretty tough stuff, I don’t think there has been a solvent invented yet that can penetrate it. Shift the gearcase into reverse prior to heating, then it will just be pulled into forward gear while the gearcase is pulled down slightly to access the shift rod connector (you may have to spin the prop slightly to allow it to shift into forward while pulling downward).
Once the gearcase is off, you can straighten out the threads, or replace the stud….There is no way to sneak a bolt in there because of the shape of the exhaust housing.
Finally, I suppose there is the possibility that seized driveshaft splines are holding things together, but it doesn’t seem like you have gotten the gearcase to move down even the slightest bit…So, I’m thinking it is the stud…
Once the gearcase/water pump are off, be sure to run a tap through all the holes to clean out the salt. Be sure to use gasket sealer/grease on all the fasteners, especially the little water pump screws…Be sure to clean off the driveshaft upper splines and apply OMC moly lube liberally to the sides of the splines…Try to avoid getting moly lube on top of the driveshaft while may prevent proper seating due to a hydraulic lock caused by the grease.February 20, 2020 at 5:21 pm #195500Alright everyone. Got it out. Heat had to be applied as much as I didn’t want to. Mauled the stud a little. I’ll just replace it. Found nothing obviously wrong. Seals look good on the lower unit but the impeller is not moving so nicely. I think I made the right move here opening this up. There must be a clog near the indicator. I can free that up. Clean up the drive shaft re lube everything reassemble everything the way it should with new parts and gaskets and that should buy me a few seasons problem free. This is the second time members here helped me out and I really appreciate it. Last one diagnosing a shock absorber in a 62 evinrude. Thanks again guys and gals
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