A-35 Flywheel Removal

[T….in Wisconsin]

I’m in the process of removing the flywheel on an A-35. I’m  finding the hub to be stuck much tighter on the this one than  the A-22 & 23  I’ve worked on.

The double -nut tool I’ve used in the past has not worked on the A-35. I’m now trying  an 8″ 3-jaw puller. I’ve made sure the flats on the puller jaws clear the edge of the magneto plate. I’ve  tightened the center screw on the puller by  hand tight and another 1.5 turns with a wrench. 

I’ve sprayed WD-40 on the shaft, hub & keyway slot and now letting it sit for a while. 

Seeking advice on proceeding from this point.

Can heat be applied in moderation to the top of the shaft & hub in an effort to loosen it? I understand the concern of not overheating the area to damage any of the components on the magneto plate.

Overall the motor is in good condition, coil is good, nothing stuck, has a very clean tank & carb.

Thanks in advance.

 

 

[Buccaneer]

I was in the same situation with a 12 hp West Bend recently,
wanting to use a 3 jaw puller, but it was highly advised against.
Instead, I made a good knocker. The magic only happened
after I supported the whole weight of the motor by the flywheel,
then using the knocker. I hooked one side of the flywheel on
my heavy duty workbench, and held the other side by hand
while I wrapped on the knocker.
I’ve only used a torch a time or two on a flywheel……. after
all else failed.

 

 

Prepare to be boarded!

[joecb]

What Bucc said , X2… To optimize results with a “knocker” one must deliver a heavy decisive blow with a heavy hammer. Tap , tap , tap will not do the job.

Joe B

[T….in Wisconsin]

So when using the described method the Magneto Plate and Flywheel would both come off at the same time. (loosen the magneto plate
collar first). I going to look at using 2 pieces of hardwood to straddle under the flywheel to contact as much surface are on the edges as possible.

Is the knocker shown in pic 2 the same or similar as what has worked for you?

This may be on instance where getting a bigger hammer applies.

Thanks Bucc & Joe B. I appreciate the advice.

[joecb]

The knocker that you pictured looks like it should work OK, except that I would use a much shorter bolt, because, unless you are really good with the hammer that long bolt would tend to exert a sideways force, maybe even enough to damage the crankshaft thread. Consider that you only have half a nut length engaged with the thread. Be sure that the hammer blow is “square on”.

As for the “loosen the mag plate” thing, where did that advice come from? the mag plate need not be loosened, it is not attached to the flywheel and will remain in place. UNLESS, your proposed support system extends enough inward to actual engage the mag plate. Ideally the support system only catches the lower edge of the flywheel, or if you have a friend with really strong hands able to hold the motor up by the flywheel.

And DO NOT use a gear puller, you will damage the flywheel.

Joe B

[T….in Wisconsin]

I’ll use a shorter bolt as advised.

Removing the mag plate at the same time was my thought, do you see any harm in doing so?

My thought is to use two pieces of hardwood to hang the motor from to support the flywheel thus freeing up both hand to strike the knockout. iJust an idea that I thought might be safer and easier to do than trying to support on the edges of flywheel. Also simpler for one person to do.

In most instances with this and other projects, my first ideas are not always the one used as with the 3-jaw gear puller.

Thoughts and advice appreciated.

Thanks Joe B.

[joecb]

I understand your plan of supporting the flywheel and mag plate together. You only need to break loose the taper on the FW, only a tiny amount of movement needed, so be sure and add a few washers between the knocker and the FW to limit the amount of travel once it breaks loose. This will minimize the chance of the mag plate somehow jamming on the crankcase hub and breaking.  Maybe, over thinking this , but better safe than sorry.

Joe B

[T….in Wisconsin]

Wiser to over think and consider all options and outcomes.
Adding washers make good sense.
I’ll let you know how it works out.

Thanks

[T….in Wisconsin]

I’m concerned with striking the knockout tool to hard and damaging the shaft.
I’m using a heavier hand sledge hammer and striking harder than what was required on the other “A” flywheels I’ve removed in the past.

What advice do you have on applying heat to the hub in an effort to loosen it from the shaft shaft?

Is a torch or heat gun safe to use to apply heat the hub via the point adjustment access hole.

Advice and thoughts appreciated.

1 user thanked author for this post.

DAN C. SODERSTROM

[joecb]

Wow! that set-up should work. Some heat will help… propane torch around the FW hub ( not thru the hole) , heat, not smoking hot, just hot enough that your finger doesn’t want to stay. Try it, let us know…

Joe B

[Author]

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